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Dacia wiper motor

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Looking for electrical figures for car is a nightmare , just testing the wiper motor as it was blowing a fuse straight away when trying to use the wipers, I tested the resistance of each of the pins to ground and got the results below, I think they look ok but having little doubts so was wondering has anyone have any insight on the test results

D6502EED-CA8C-4D2C-8EF5-D640BCE4D851.jpeg
 
Most wipers these days, are controlled by the Body Control Unit, along with many other things, so the fault might be on the BCU. Have you tried unplugging the wiper motor, and running the wipers, without the wipers?
 
Yeah done most tests now tbh
With connector to motor disconnected no fuse blowing, tested dc voltages to each wire in connecter with unplugged and got results below which seems to be normal well got no way of confirming that ????

My only conclusion is the motor but it was replaced with a non original part and was working for couple weeks but fuse didn’t blow originally ( old motor) but now with new part fuse does blow .

7121BCDB-FAA9-4AE1-93A7-DF5A8A982360.jpeg
 
My only conclusion is the motor but it was replaced with a non original part and was working for couple weeks but fuse didn’t blow originally ( old motor) but now with new part fuse does blow .

Sounds like the control, blowing the fuse.
 
Most wipers these days, are controlled by the Body Control Unit, along with many other things, so the fault might be on the BCU. Have you tried unplugging the wiper motor, and running the wipers, without the wipers?
If the problem was the control unit would I still get the correct voltages? In my limited experience I thought I wouldn’t
 
How have you measured the voltages?

What's the alternator voltage output?

Does it have screen wash too? Any voltage figures ?
 
How have you measured the voltages?

What's the alternator voltage output?

Does it have screen wash too? Any voltage figures ?
The voltages are already given Above

Why would screen wash make a difference?

Why would the alternator have a difference when there’s no problem with the battery ?
 
I had the same fault although not on a Dacia. On my vehicle the crank arm had been rubbing on the motor wires and eventually wore them through so every time I tried to use the wipers the fuse blew. I had to remove the scuttle to get at it.
 
The screen has a separate fuse which never blown after using it
Likely to be controlled by bcu too, so maybe it points towards the motor
Where does it look there isn’t enough power ?
The figures given. You really need to test it with engine on, and off
Figures are very low. So is it a voltage/supply issue, that may be confusing the bcu too.

Can you take power and earth leads direct to motor and prove if it works or not . Remove it and use short cables if easier from battery
 
What do mean by control unit ? Is it anything I could do or is it just replace the whole control unit job ?

These days, your switches tell a BCU, what you want switched on and off. The BCU then does the actual switching. The BCU, is a computer, and can do all sorts of clever things, such as - if I manually switch my wipers on, and have my headlights on, every third time, it will give the headlights a wash. If I turn the ignition off, then switch the lights off, the lights stay on for a few minutes, to see me to my house door. If I leave a door open, after 20 minutes, it will assume I've left the interior light on, and switch it off.

If those voltages are measured, engine running, then they look low.
 
the resistance of each of the pins
If those resistances are to be believed, then the current at 12V would only be 2 amps and 1 amp, but that's a ridiculously low 24 watts and 12 watts. Typical wiper motor would be several multiples of that.
However they are probably unrelated as motors can't realistically be tested or much determined from the DC resistance when it's not powered.

, tested dc voltages
Far too low, 12.2 suggest the battery is only about 50% charged.
Test again with the engine running, should be about 14 volts.

The most likely fix to all of this is to buy another motor, the proper one, not some cheapo copy part.
 
then the current at 12V would only be 2 amps and 1 amp,
Yeah it’s probably more like about 0.8 amps

It’s was nearly impossible to electrically test the motor connected as couldn’t get my probes into the connector and didn’t have a
clamp meter for amperage. I mainly checked the resistance to see if I some sort of short

Far too low, 12.2 suggest the battery is only about 50% charged.
Don’t understand as it’s a 12v
The most likely fix to all of this is to buy another motor, the proper one, not some cheapo copy part.
I think I agree with that conclusion but getting the original part is impossible hence why only copies available it rediculous with a 8 year old car and still selling them to this day
 
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