Dewalt DCN660N 2nd fix nail gun for Cedar cladding?

[24sevenv24]

Hi all.

I have Dewalt tools and want to invest in a nail gun for cladding my extension in cedar. I will be using stainless nails for secret fixing of 18mm cedar. Will the Dewalt DCN660 2nd fix gun be suitable for the job?

Cheers

 

[robinbanks]

Do you own other DeWalt gear with the same battery system?

 

[24sevenv24]

Do you own other DeWalt gear with the same battery system?

Yes I have many Dewalt XR tools.

 

[^woody^]

Second fix nailers won't do.

And the heads of first fix probably won't do for secret nailing either.

 

[24sevenv24]

Second fix nailers won't do.

And the heads of first fix probably won't do for secret nailing either.

Thanks woody. What type of nailer would you suggest? Cheers

 

[24sevenv24]

Also what are your thoughts on the following: I keep reading conflicting advise about fixing externa. cedar cladding.

1) Secret fixing or front fixed? some say they warp if secret fixed, some say they split if front fixed..
2) Use spacers? should I leave a 1 or 2mm gap to allow movement in the groove?
3) Some say use stainless pins, some say use 18 gauge stainless nails and a 2nd fix gun.

What do you suggest? Thanks in advance

 

[^woody^]

I've used screws for past jobs.

See here www.diynot.com/diy/threads/screws-for-cladding.596283/#post-5292688 , but J&N down the bottom of that thread does mention nails/pins, but I don't think he's posted for a while to clarify.

I would use suitable screws. I can't recommend a nailer, but I would want to trust the opinion of someone who does, someone experienced who has done so for many years and many jobs, as the wrong choice can cause problems - splitting, sunk heads, positioning, visible dips in the toungue.

There is a high risk of damage to the boards with hand nailing.

You won't normally have a problem with fixing through the tongue with the standard 18mm T&G boards. It's the thinner shed profiles that easily split. But splitting can occur due to mispositioning or poor machining/grain.

Likewise for warping. You don't need to mess about with spacers, as expansion gap is built into the groove rebate. However coating the back as well as the front of the board before fixing prevents uneven moisture absorption and evaporation and the higher risk of cupping and bowing.

Face fixing gives a completely different look, and face fixed nails look terrible IMO.

 

[24sevenv24]

I've used screws for past jobs.

See here www.diynot.com/diy/threads/screws-for-cladding.596283/#post-5292688 , but J&N down the bottom of that thread does mention nails/pins, but I don't think he's posted for a while to clarify.

I would use suitable screws. I can't recommend a nailer, but I would want to trust the opinion of someone who does, someone experienced who has done so for many years and many jobs, as the wrong choice can cause problems - splitting, sunk heads, positioning, visible dips in the toungue.

There is a high risk of damage to the boards with hand nailing.

You won't normally have a problem with fixing through the tongue with the standard 18mm T&G boards. It's the thinner shed profiles that easily split. But splitting can occur due to mispositioning or poor machining/grain.

Likewise for warping. You don't need to mess about with spacers, as expansion gap is built into the groove rebate. However coating the back as well as the front of the board before fixing prevents uneven moisture absorption and evaporation and the higher risk of cupping and bowing.

Face fixing gives a completely different look, and face fixed nails look terrible IMO.

Thanks very much woody, very useful Info. I think screws are the way forward for me. 18mm board definitely seem the way to go also. Cheers