Directional Tyres

[Mottie]

Got a picture of the bolt and locking nut key?

 

[Mottie]

I try to remember to crack my nuts after visiting a garage/tyre centre and do them up to a more sensible torque. Then if I need to change a wheel at the roadside, I'm in with a chance.

I would say that everyone who is capable of changing a wheel at the roadside should take them off one at a time before you need to and clean the mating faces between the flange/hub and the wheel rim with a wire brush, paying extra attention to the locating spigot that goes into the wheel rim and apply some grease between them. I have had a few cars in that even with garage equipment to hand have been very difficult to separate. I’m talking about some heavy hitting on the inside of the rim with a hide hammer while rotating the wheel. I would have had no chance of getting the wheel off on the road.

This gives you an idea although I’ve had some that just will not kick off. If you don’t have a heavy hide hammer, perhaps use a block of wood on the inner rim and a hammer. It’s rare, but not something extra you want to be dealing with when you have a puncture.

 

[ReganAndCarter]

I would say that everyone who is capable of changing a wheel at the roadside should take them off one at a time before you need to and clean the mating faces between the flange/hub and the wheel rim with a wire brush, paying extra attention to the locating spigot that goes into the wheel rim and apply some grease between them. I have had a few cars in that even with garage equipment to hand have been very difficult to separate. I’m talking about some heavy hitting on the inside of the rim with a hide hammer while rotating the wheel. I would have had no chance of getting the wheel off on the road.

This gives you an idea although I’ve had some that just will not kick off. If you don’t have a heavy hide hammer, perhaps use a block of wood on the inner rim and a hammer. It’s rare, but not something extra you want to be dealing with when you have a puncture.

I've heard of this, but not experienced it. All of my cars/vans bar one had steel wheels. Is it more of a problem with alloys?

 

[hllns]

The advice to the owner should include a maximum speed until the tyre is fitted / replaced correctly, I recall this advice was given to a friend with a surprising low maximum safe speed.

The norm for "skinny" spares rather than normal full width and it's normally labelled on the wheel hub, not ideal if you're on a long motorway journey.

 

[carmanmemoranda]

I would say that everyone who is capable of changing a wheel at the roadside should take them off one at a time before you need to and clean the mating faces between the flange/hub and the wheel rim with a wire brush, paying extra attention to the locating spigot that goes into the wheel rim and apply some grease between them. I have had a few cars in that even with garage equipment to hand have been very difficult to separate. I’m talking about some heavy hitting on the inside of the rim with a hide hammer while rotating the wheel. I would have had no chance of getting the wheel off on the road.

This gives you an idea although I’ve had some that just will not kick off. If you don’t have a heavy hide hammer, perhaps use a block of wood on the inner rim and a hammer. It’s rare, but not something extra you want to be dealing with when you have a puncture.

NO grease should be present between the mating face of the hub and the wheel. A little around the edge of the wheel centre is OK.

I think it's what you mean, but not very clear. Don't want people slapping grease on though by mis understanding.

Easiest way to move a stuck wheel if out away from tools is to slacken all the wheel bolts a little and let jack down quickly. If that fails, full lock to lock driving very slowly forward and back will break the bond

 

[carmanmemoranda]

Alternatively, could a tyre fitter use the broken locking wheel nut key with an air wrench to a greater degree of success?

likely to make it worse not undo it..

Get rid of locking wheel nuts/bolts while you can and replace with standards. Might mean getting a garage or mobile specialist to remove them though, but worth it

Can't remember the last time I heard of any wheels stolen. Complete cars, body parts, cats, headlamps yes, but not wheels.

 

[securespark]

I've heard of this, but not experienced it. All of my cars/vans bar one had steel wheels. Is it more of a problem with alloys?

In my experience, yes. Because dissimilar metals have an electrolytic (or is it galvanic?) reaction when in close contact with each other and a liquid. Aluminium corrodes producing aluminium oxide and steel forms rust.

 

[Stivino]

(or is it galvanic?)

Correct, named after Luigi Galvani.

Aluminium corrodes producing aluminium oxide and steel forms rust.

Both the result of oxidation. The name of the process when something combines with Oxygen.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Car wheels are held in place by the friction between the wheel and hub. The wheel bolts just squeeze the two together to increase this friction, the wheel does not get held by pressing against the sides of the bolts as many think - if this was the case they'd rattle about with every revolution.

So greasing is probably not a good idea, you're then putting something slippery between surfaces that need to mesh and grip together.

 

[fixitflav]

In fairness I would say that unless you have a long breaker bar, a breakdown service may be needed if the wheel nuts were last air wrenched on.

Tyre fitters need educating on this IMO. They sometimes come close to stripping the threads. Whenever I have wheels removed and replaced I slacken the nuts in turn, often needing plenty of bar, and tighten to a sensible torque.

 

[carmanmemoranda]

Nuts being air gunned up is not in itself a problem. Most decent guns have variable settings so are OK for speed, which should then be checked by torque wrench.
There are some really strong guns with no settings which are great for undoing but should not be used for doing up things like wheel nuts

 

[fixitflav]

Nuts being air gunned up is not in itself a problem. Most decent guns have variable settings so are OK for speed, which should then be checked by torque wrench.
There are some really strong guns with no settings which are great for undoing but should not be used for doing up things like wheel nuts

Agreed, it's the fitters that's the problem! They should run the nuts up at a low torque setting, then finish off by hand. But they take the short cut.

 

[scbk]

Can't believe I agree with Freddy Mercury's Twink, but only girls should call out breakdown services to fit their spare wheel. But that's the youth of today, I suppose.

My mate used to say, if you're female and get a puncture;
Get the tools/spare wheel/jack out the car and make a start. Even if you haven't got a clue what you're doing. Within about 5 minutes a bloke will stop and offer to help the damsel in distress.

 

[securespark]

They should run the nuts up at a low torque setting, then finish off by hand.

Fnarr, fnarr!

 

[Mottie]

Car wheels are held in place by the friction between the wheel and hub. The wheel bolts just squeeze the two together to increase this friction, the wheel does not get held by pressing against the sides of the bolts as many think - if this was the case they'd rattle about with every revolution.

So greasing is probably not a good idea, you're then putting something slippery between surfaces that need to mesh and grip together.

Cobblers! The tapered wheel nuts prevent the rim from moving, not friction between the wheel and hub. On a Range Rover service sheet it is a service item to remove the wheel and apply some anti-seize lubricant between the two.

What on earth will 'rattle' about with every revolution of the wheel? If you’ve got a rattling with every revolution of the wheel, your nuts are loose!