diy wired alarm...is there an obvious choice?

[virgilns]

Moved in a few months ago and now I'm rewiring the house floor by floor. I want to replace the existing alarm (old wireless one with key fobs) with a wired one. Is there an idiot's guide to alrms on here? I did have a look but couldn't see anything. And is there a kind of 'default choice' alrm to go for...you know, the ford focus of alrms...does what it says on the tin. Resonable price. Easy to fix and understand etc.

Also for a security novice, what features should I be looking out for? Remote notification/mobile phone dialing is one I can thik of....

Sorry if this has been covered before, but can't see a sticky or a wiki for it...

Chars, virgil

 

[sparkymarka]

8/6 core to each detector, 8 core to bell , 8 core to keypad dont forget upstairs if keypad needed, 6 core to doors front / back, 8 core to internal sounder/ speaker and bt cable to panel from phone point, and spare cable to loft, you never know..... hope this helps..... and dont forget mains fuse spur... panel down to installers choice i fit texecom premier but its all down to price in the end..

 

[RF Lighting]

Texecom is really good gear. It's all I use these days. The premier panel is a brilliant bit of kit, but might be a bit daunting to set up if you've never used one before. There are few different options for notification which plug straight onto this panel.

The veritas panel is a bullet proof panel, and dead easy to set up too. Ideal for a basic domestic system of up to 8 zones. You would need a stand alone dialler in addition to the panel, but they are easy to wire in too.

 

[virgilns]

Thanks for replies...looks good!

So a Texecom 24 metal kit plus x number of dual tech sensors (360 degree ceiling ones good or bad idea?) gives me a basic alarm I can set from the front door. I get notified via the communicator but does not seem to come with an external sounder so wont hear it??

...to that I can add voice dialling speech diallers, microphone (to be able to hear them burgle my house???) fire detectors, external sounder(s), additional keypads to be able to set the alarm from the back door?? and such like?

Looks reasonable priced (116 for basic package plus sensors) unless Ive missed anything.

What does Grade 3 mean?

do you normally put sensors up stairs? I guess not as you'd set them off when going for a pee at night?? Or is that the point of zones - to just set the downstairs zone(s) when asleep (if you set one while asleep)

 

[alan333]

do you normally put sensors up stairs? I guess not as you'd set them off when going for a pee at night?? Or is that the point of zones - to just set the downstairs zone(s) when asleep (if you set one while asleep)

One movement sensor in the hall upstairs is often enough, and you can have it disabled when setting night mode, but enabled during full set mode.

A few other points to consider...
You can get a keypad at your entry point which has a keyring you can touch against it to switch the alarm on or off. These can be especially handy for unsetting when you come back with hands full of shopping etc as there's no fumbling.
Also consider pet friendly sensors, they're not much more expensive.
Also if fitting a movement sensor to cover your front door make sure it's situated such that a large envelope coming thru the letter box doesn't set it off.
Also consider a carbon monoxide alarm in the system which would wake you up before you get gassed if your central heating system is faulty.

 

[virgilns]

do you normally put sensors up stairs? I guess not as you'd set them off when going for a pee at night?? Or is that the point of zones - to just set the downstairs zone(s) when asleep (if you set one while asleep)

One movement sensor in the hall upstairs is often enough, and you can have it disabled when setting night mode, but enabled during full set mode.

A few other points to consider...
You can get a keypad at your entry point which has a keyring you can touch against it to switch the alarm on or off. These can be especially handy for unsetting when you come back with hands full of shopping etc as there's no fumbling.
Also consider pet friendly sensors, they're not much more expensive.
Also if fitting a movement sensor to cover your front door make sure it's situated such that a large envelope coming thru the letter box doesn't set it off.
Also consider a carbon monoxide alarm in the system which would wake you up before you get gassed if your central heating system is faulty.

All good points, thanks

Will have mains powered smoke and CO2 alarms anyway - is there a specific advantage to having them integrated?

No pets to consider except perhaps a 2 yr old son

are wall/corner mounted sensors better than 360' ceiling sensors, of vice versa? LIke the idea of a 360 in the hall way (large-ish hall - 18'by 11') and corner sensors in each room covering the access...

Door sensors as well as dual tech covering doors...shock sensors over kill??

The whole alarm world seems like you can get very carried away...if a lot of it over engineernig for the sake of it, or is it actually useful?

Also looking at CCTV for outside - anything worth intergrating with alarm or completely separate?

 

[virgilns]

Just ordered my alarm.

Texecom 24 metal clad.
comm 2400
gsm communicator
360 degree dual tech sensor for hall
4 x dual tech sensors for down stairs and landing
door contacts
two keypads one for upstairs, one for landing
battery and internal/external sounder

Any tips on wiring it all up? going to do it in stages, box, sounders keypads and hall/kitchen/landing sensors first as easy to get to (and have to be done before I can close my utility space up), then diningroom, livingroom and external doors/garage after...

does that sound feasable?

 

[ScrappyDoo]

How much did that lot cost you?

When I've wired up alarms before, I've normally just sprawled them across the floor to make sure everything works before wiring them up properly. if they required a 240V supply to function then I stuck a mains plug on them (changing to a fused spur once installed properly)

 

[freddy871]

do you normally put sensors up stairs? I guess not as you'd set them off when going for a pee at night?? Or is that the point of zones - to just set the downstairs zone(s) when asleep (if you set one while asleep)

One movement sensor in the hall upstairs is often enough, and you can have it disabled when setting night mode, but enabled during full set mode.

A few other points to consider...
You can get a keypad at your entry point which has a keyring you can touch against it to switch the alarm on or off. These can be especially handy for unsetting when you come back with hands full of shopping etc as there's no fumbling.
Also consider pet friendly sensors, they're not much more expensive.
Also if fitting a movement sensor to cover your front door make sure it's situated such that a large envelope coming thru the letter box doesn't set it off.
Also consider a carbon monoxide alarm in the system which would wake you up before you get gassed if your central heating system is faulty.

Re the the pet sensors, just bought a honeywell 8EP407N pet freindly kit. If I mount PIR facing inbound from (glass) front door pointing at stairs and hall. Will the cats trigger it going up the stairs. PIR's say up to 25Kgs should be fine.

Ta J

 

[libby lou lou]

Hope you get away using the pet passives, i never got them right, mind it was a few yrs ago and i suppose they have changed.

 

[sparkymarka]

never face pet detectors at stairs as you will get false alarms....

 

[freddy871]

never face pet detectors at stairs as you will get false alarms....

Cheers for advice.. first ever install for me so should be interesting. All tips are greatly received.

 

[virgilns]

How much did that lot cost you?

When I've wired up alarms before, I've normally just sprawled them across the floor to make sure everything works before wiring them up properly. if they required a 240V supply to function then I stuck a mains plug on them (changing to a fused spur once installed properly)

I think about five hundred and something...gsm dialer is the most expensive bit, close though to one of the keypads...but had to have a nice looking keypad for the hall! gsm dialler ornly turned up yesterday (bit delayed) so not that advanced with install yet...box in, one keypad up another to go and all the sensors...

Got wires coming out of my ears as its next to the 1st floor consumer unit...which is half done......

 

[pcaouolte]

Got wires coming out of my ears as its next to the 1st floor consumer unit...which is half done......

Try to keep alarm cables away from the mains cables, not running parallel to them for long distances. Do not feed the alarm cables through the same holes in joists as mains cables.

 

[virgilns]

Just aded anotehr 100quid to the bill...2 more PIRs, and expander module, PC data cable and anotehr 100m of alarm cable...soon adds up.

Purely out of interest, what would a sensible quote be to fit a hard waired texecom 24 with 7 PIRs, 3 flush mount door contacts, 2 keypads external bell internal sounder, comm 2400 and a gsm dialler. Most cable runs under landing floor to get to room and drop downs.

Probably cost me close to 700quid so far on bits, just wonder what a pro would charge (roughly speaking)