Do I need to replace my bathroom radiator?

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Moved into property and the bathroom radiator has what looks like a fair bit of rust on it. Is it salvageable or do I need a new one?
 

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Dont waste your time or effort new one from screw fix less than 100 quid
 
Thanks both. From what I can tell it's not dual, only gas. How easy / difficult is it to remove / replace? Any useful guides out there you'd recommend?

Or is it advisable to get someone in?

Ta
 
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Thanks both. From what I can tell it's not dual, only gas.
The radiator doesnt know what is heating the water that runs through it, the dual fuel mentioned in that add means you can if you want add a small electric heater to the rail so it can be turned on in the summer without running the heating, this is completely optional and the rad will run exactly the same as the existing without the electric heater
 
Moved into property and the bathroom radiator has what looks like a fair bit of rust on it. Is it salvageable or do I need a new one?
As long as the inhibitor is up to scratch so it should be OK on the inside, it wouldn't be a big job to clean up the rusty bits and give it coat of Hammerite. Like new!
 
Does this kind of corrosion cause a leak eventually? I have a radiator (same type) that is in pretty much the same state. We're waiting for a bathroom upgrade but it will be after next winter.
 
Does this kind of corrosion cause a leak eventually?
In theory yes, but it would take a long time, appearance is more of a problem. If you clean off loose paint and rust and repaint it will be OK. I haven't used Hammerite for years but it used to claim you could apply it firm rust. Probably does. Worked OK on cars!
Check on the inhibitor, internal corrosion more of an issue.
 
In theory yes, but it would take a long time, appearance is more of a problem. If you clean off loose paint and rust and repaint it will be OK. I haven't used Hammerite for years but it used to claim you could apply it firm rust. Probably does. Worked OK on cars!
Check on the inhibitor, internal corrosion more of an issue.
Thanks. How exactly do you check the inhibitor?
 
Thanks. How exactly do you check the inhibitor?

Drain some water from the system.
If it's filthy black, completely drain it down.
Add some cleaner and fill it back up.
Let it run for a few days.
Drain it down again - cleaner should have got any dirt into suspension and allow it to drain out.
Add some inhibitor and refill.

If water looks clear(ish) just drain enough to add some inhibitor.
 
Thanks. How exactly do you check the inhibitor?
Take a sample of the system water, about 50ml in a jam jar or similar. If you have a Magnaclean or similar that's the easiest place to take a sample, otherwise from a rad bleed valve or something.
Drop in 3-4 bright wire nails. If the inhibitor level is OK the nails will be clean and the water clear after about a week, if the nails are rusty and the water is going brown, needs more. As a check, you can do the same with tap water, and compare, but it's not essential.
As dilalio says, if the water's very dirty something needs doing.
 

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