Does a new cooker extractor need a plug socket if it has a plug?

[DetlefSchmitz]

Yes, like that.

 

[JohnW2]

Yes, like that.

I thought we had established (see message #4) that this joint is (or was) concealed behind plasterboard? If that is the case (and will continue to be the case), then I think you'll probably agree that a connection such as the OP has suggested would not be acceptable.

Kind Regards, John

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

If so then that would be true. All I see is an open slot in the wall behind the extractor. It that were plastered over then it wouldn't be ok.

 

[EFLImpudence]

 

[JohnW2]

If so then that would be true. All I see is an open slot in the wall behind the extractor. It that were plastered over then it wouldn't be ok.

I agree that there is perhaps some uncertainty about the situation, but we appear to be agreed. Even if the plan were to leave that hole in the plasterboard, a solution such as EFLI has just proposed would be much neater.

Kind Regards, John

 

[John D v2.0]

Like this right ?

That would do near enough. Although you are supposed to sleeve the cpc with green and yellow.

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

Certainly, I'd probably do similar. If all the tiles are coming off anyway, it may leave even more options. My connection point is above the wall cupboard top line.

 

[ydrol]

Thanks for input so far. Just a quick correction - I think to connection was inside of the old extractor not behind the wall - if you look closely at the wire it comes out of the wall. I had taken it off some weeks ago so I might have given everyone a bum steer on that . sorry..

I had just tucked the end back in the hole for safety until new unit installed
(as I didnt realise the isolator switch was for this until I started posting)

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks for input so far. Silly question - if the appliance cable is long enough - can I just connect it directly to the isolating switch ? making sure runs are vertical/horizontal ?

Yes, and that would arguably be better, since it would avoid the join. Would you be talking about 'burying' that cable, or having it run 'on the surface'? If the latter, routing would not be an issue and you could probably get an 'isolator switch' with a cable outlet.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ydrol]

Sorry JohnW2 - I edited post 38 behind you back after I went to take another look! So some options are

-Run appliance cable directly to isolator switch if it can reach - OK
(would like cables out of sight really)

-.sit join inside appliance inside a in-line connector - Thoughts ? I suspect bad This is what it was like before.

 

[JohnW2]

Sorry JohnW2 - I edited post 38 behind you back after I went to take another look! So some options are

Fair enough, and thanks for the clarification.

-Run appliance cable directly to isolator switch if it can reach - OK (would like cables out of sight really)

Yep, I would probably regard that as the best option. Remember, however, that you might need to replace the appliance sometime, so don't make it too difficult to get at the cable.

-.sit join inside appliance inside a in-line connector - Thoughts ? I suspect bad This is what it was like before.

Yep, with a connector in an appropriate enclosure, that would be OK so long at the connection/enclosure remains 'accessible' - but I'd probably still prefer the first option.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Mikefromlondon]

I agree with all proposing a proper solution that would meet latest standards, however, I have seen worst where owners simply twist wires and wrap joints in pvc tape! which is a fire risk, one can use a small junction box where every thing i.e. screw terminals are also enclosed so no danger of anyone making a contact with their skin or with other things, a terminal strip as has been used is not a 100% perfect solution as it leaves cables vulnerable to getting pulled out as it has no cord grippers, that white junction box (your picture above) with cover is next best solution, the thing is once the hood goes into place, no one is ever going to touch that junction box or terminal strip for some years, and who ever has to go back in there will soon find out that hood has been terminated or joined to the supply feed using a chock block, his Electrician suggested using a 3 pin socket and a plug for easy connection in future, which could be some years away. My kitchen fitter also used a chock block in 1992 when it was done, I have taken my hood down a few times to give it a thorough clean up, and never had any problem disconnecting it from this, all modern wiring practice requires a fused spur and some means of connecting the fan to the supply, and easier method is a 3 pin plug and a socket hidden behind the hood or behind the vertical flue.

 

[Mikefromlondon]

Please don't! Use a decent enclosing box.

Does not have to be any more decent than it was, but practical and safe, this is not gas safe thread! so don't get confused!

 

[JohnW2]

Does not have to be any more decent than it was, but practical and safe....

I'm not so sure that many people would regard a connector block wrapped in tape, and with no cable restrains, as being particularly "practical and safe"!

Kind Regards John

 

[Mikefromlondon]

I'm not so sure that many people would regard a connector block wrapped in tape, and with no cable restrains, as being particularly "practical and safe"!

Kind Regards John

Depends John, one sees a glass half empty and another sees it as half full, if no one is ever going to come across this cable once the hood is covering it, where do you see the problem? It is not a table lamp that where someone is trying to extend its cord using a nylon terminal block and where danger can be seen.

Someone actually brought me two very nice table lamps, and asked me to extend the wire, and even brought the wire and the terminals for me to extend, I refused and said I will have to rewire it entirely in one single length, so like I said depends on a situation, I am not condemning what your concerns are, but I don't see any myself in this particular situation.