Does a new cooker extractor need a plug socket if it has a plug?

[JohnW2]

Depends John, one sees a glass half empty and another sees it as half full, if no one is ever going to come across this cable once the hood is covering it, where do you see the problem?

What you and I may think, or do ourselves, is one thing - but what it is appropriate to advise in a DIY forum is, in my opinion, something rather different.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Mikefromlondon]

I don't disagree with you, however I was offering my opinion and not a specific advice, if I was offering a specific advice I would say yes get an electrician and get him to wire up a BS approved box and run the cable inside that box, however I am of the opinion that it is perfectly safe in this particular situation to wire the new hood to the existing terminal joint, as long as connections are made correctly and tightly, no risk of wires getting pulled out, or insulation stripped well back exposing conductors, and no stray conductors sticking out of the terminals , and to further protect against electrical hazard, cover it in pvc tape, as has been done by previous electrician who wired it up before. There is a reason why pvc tapes and terminal blocks are sold in Britain.

So I now close my case, OP has been given correct advice by you and others, to use a back box, so he can make a choice, but if he goes the old route, it won't be the end of the world.

 

[stillp]

Mike, what do you think the tape will achieve?

 

[Mikefromlondon]

The tape is just to prevent any accidental contact with terminals or other exposed parts of the joint, and make it a little more splash proof, and also provide a degree of grip.
It is perfectly safe or I won't be saying it. Like I said it is a next best solution to not using a box, and if OP is conscious of safety, and has a concern, he can take the long route which is get a box installed, but I have expressed my opinion that it is not absolutely necessary and only in this particular situation. Better still he can use that special joint box with a cover, that is even better than taping it. and it would not require a box put in, however, if he has reached this far and is not in a hurry then he might as well get a box installed as it would only take 5 minutes to screw one in.

(If this was in a situation where anyone could get to, then it is absolutely NO NO! )

 

[ban-all-sheds]

-Run appliance cable directly to isolator switch if it can reach

If it doesn't, replace it with a longer one.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Remember, however, that you might need to replace the appliance sometime, so don't make it too difficult to get at the cable.

Conduit is your friend.

 

[JohnW2]

I don't disagree with you, however I was offering my opinion and not a specific advice ...

With respect, I don't think that it how it came across, and probably not how an OP would regard it ....

... so just connect your new hood to existing terminal strip, and wrap insulation tape over it, tuck it back, and you already have a fused isolator switch ... so why do you want to prolong your task, or pull your tiles away and try and fit a back box, you never had one for so many years why now?

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The tape is just to prevent any accidental contact with terminals or other exposed parts of the joint, and make it a little more splash proof, and also provide a degree of grip.

You called it insulation tape.

Does it satisfy the requirements of BS 7671 for insulation applied during erection?

Re "splash-proof", what IP rating does it provide?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

why do you want to ... try and fit a back box, you never had one for so many years why now?

How about because an existing historical non-compliance is not grounds for perpetuating the non-compliance?

It really did read as if the tiles were being removed anyway, so it would be reasonable to do the electrics properly.

IMO it would be unreasonable to carry on with choc-block wrapped in tape, and therefore would not be legal.

 

[Risteard]

Interestingly, 537.1.4 refers specifically to single-phase installations under the control of 'ordinary persons'.

Indeed it does, and I was going to make that point but decided against it as it seemed clear that we were talking about a single phase installation and I didn't wish to add to the confusion.

 

[JohnW2]

Indeed it does, and I was going to make that point but decided against it as it seemed clear that we were talking about a single phase installation and I didn't wish to add to the confusion.

Yes, but it was also clear that we were not talking about an isolator at the origin of the installation - but that didn't stop you making your comment!

Kind Regards, John

 

[Mikefromlondon]

I have removed an old extractor (installed by previous owner) to be replaced with a new one.

The old one did not have a plug but the cable was attached to a live cable behind the wall using a connector block.
Yours is not a unique situation, I have come across many wired up like that including my own hood wired up like it by my kitchen fitter in 1992.


My handyman says the new extractor fan has to plug into a plug socket?
Only portable appliances are usually plugged in, like washing machines, Microwave ovens., gas cookers with spark ignition, I have not yet come across a cooker hood requiring a plug and socket but I have seen some where it is connected to a fused spur, I guess it makes one's life easier for next time you or someone needs to take it down, simply unplug it. just makes it convenient rather than from a safety point of view. You could be wire it into a fused spur nearby, but this would mean you will have to remove your tiles and chase wall and run a conduit and then feed wire through it and connect it directly into the fused spur.

Does it? Could I not just cut the plug off the new extractor and connect it in the same way as the old one? Should I first find out if there is an isolator switch? and should it be a certain distance from the extractor fan.
I don't see any problem with this method, as it has been used in your place, I have seen it used in many different places, but as majority here insist that it should be wired into a box, I will therefore go along with them, since doing it this way covers all angles. (but just that I didn't see it can be a problem, but have to go along what the majority says here)

I recently had an electrician sign off on everything prior to rental so I dont know why I should need to install a plug socket just because the new extractor has a plug on it?
Chances are he didn't see it how it was connected, as it was out of sight and out of anyone's reach unless the hood was taken down, and may be he would have commented on it and asked you to get it wired into a fused spur with an isolation switch.

Can anyone confirm?
All of the kitchen wiring is about 15 years old. The rest of the house wiring is much older.
So whilst you are at it, get a box installed and wire it up in the box for added peace of mind,knowing that it would meet all required standards. If you really wanted to do it more properly, then you can get ABS boxes with cable glands that can provide cord grip and a terminal block fitted inside with IP65 protection rather than using an ordinary electrical box that has knock outs and simple round gromets that does not provide cable grip, as cables can get pulled out if stressed, and particularly if earth wire comes away lose, it could become dangerous if there was an earth fault on the hood (live making contact with metal hood) also make sure no wires can get trapped behind the hood when wiring, so where your box will need fitting depends on where the cable is exiting from the new hood, and work the best route and position for the box.

 

[JohnW2]

Only portable appliances are usually plugged in, like washing machines ...

Only a very strong man would make that statement

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

All sorts of stuff which he didn't.

C'mon - if you can change the colour of what you write you can take the trouble to use quotes properly.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Only a very strong man would make that statement

Or one who has no idea what "portable" means (and it does have an official definition WRT BS 7671)