does balancing increase efficiency?

Since the boiler is going to modulate down anyway (hopefully low enough that it doesn't have to cycle), you may as well limit it to the highest power that doesn't cause short cycling at your pump setting.
The 418 can modulate down to 5kW so, assuming 10kW required for -1C outside and 21C inside, it will modulate OK until the external temperature exceeds approx 10C.

Has the OP taken into account the fact that the output of a radiator varies with the water temperature. If the flow is 70C and the Return is 50C, a "1kW" will only produce about 725W.
 
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The work that the pump has to do is to circulate the whole of the water in the heating system against the inex circuit resistance.
This is the duty or performance, required of the pump which determines its size, or in the case of a variable head pump, the regulator setting.
The volume of water flowing through the mains alters at each point where water is diverted. ie the volume becomes progressively less along the circuit and therefore the pressure drop varies.
The pressure drop has to be worked out in stages, each stage beginning at one change in volume and ending at the next one.
Servotech,
 
Has the OP taken into account the fact that the output of a radiator varies with the water temperature. If the flow is 70C and the Return is 50C, a "1kW" will only produce about 725W.

Well, I've not got the VR65 / VRT392 fitted and first impressions are "wow". So far, I can see there is now fully modulated flow temperature for HW and seperate modulated flow temp for CH. The controls now determine the 'right' temperature and modulate up/down, based on how far away the thermostat reading (tank or room) is away from the desired room/DHW setting:cool:

This means the output kW from the radiators will now vary depending on the flow temp being supplied at the time and the boiler will modulate down accordingly. I will do some more tests with d.0...

I did notice the HW cylinder heated up much faster than normal (taking around 10 mins (not timed exactly)) from around 20C to 55C, the boiler was much louder during this time, with a flow temp of up to 80C. Should I limit/lower the boilers max flow temperature for DHW or is 80C typically okay? (The cylinder temp to set at 55C)

i.e. Is it more efficient to heat the cylinder quicker with a 80C flow temp (with upto 74C return temp) or drop the max flow temperature to 61C giving a return temp of upto 55C (e.g. for condensing effeciency)?
 
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Sounds impressive. :cool: I'm jealous.

I'd stick with the 80°C for DHW. In the winter it means that you'll hardly be without heat for any time. The return from the cylinder is pretty soon going to be above 55°C. So let the boiler go balls out for DHW.
 
Does the d.1 (Pump overrun) and d.2 (max burner anti-cycling period) effect effeciency? If so, what's the best way of optimising those settings? :?:

Since installing the new controls, I noticed the boiler short cycling i.e. The boiler fires for 5 secs then goes into pump over-run mode - This is when the room temp = what is set at the thermostat, to try to combat this, I've been playing with d.1 (pump over run) and d.2 (anti-cycling time).

The Vaillant manual(s) are rather sparse on info for d.2, can anyone give me any further info on what d.2 does exactly? or reccomend any settings? - I've now changed the defaults to d.1=10 mins and d.2=50mins.

I've been taking daily gas meter readings to check efficiency, todays reading was slightly higher, that may be due to the changes in heating or the short cycling.. I'll know more tomorrow when I take another reading! :)
 
Given that the 415 has a lower design flow than the 418, if the 418 requires 12.9 l/min at 18 kW, can it be throttled back to 8.6 l/min at d.0 setting of 12 kW? Otherwise the temperature rise won't exceed 13 °C.

Looking at the 415 figures, it's max output is 15.3 kW and a min flow rate of 10.8 L/min. The designed 20C drop at 12kW is with a flow rate of 646 L/hr. As the 415 and 418 are so similar, I agree that if the 418 is rated (via d.0) to 12kW I would need a flow rate of 646L/h or 0.65 m3/h.

I've now measured the vertical drop between boiler and pump which is 2.4m. If I look at the Grundfos specs, a 2.4m head gives the following flow rates to the boiler:

Speed I = 0.75 m3/h
Speed II = 1.5 m3/h
Speed III = 2 m3/h

Does this mean the best setting to acheive the biggest drop at the boiler would be Speed I, giving 0.75m3/h or 12.5 L/min flow @ 12kW?

12.5 is slightly lower than the 12.9 minimum flow of water listed in the Vaillant manual, however, would that 12.9L/min be for it's 18.9kW output?

@ajrobb - How do I calculate the maximum tempature rise from those figures? I'm not sure how you calculated the 8.6 l/min or the 13C rise?

Erm... is somebody getting confused between system head and pressure drop? ;) The pump should be sized to the system: your pipe losses will be around 0.009m/metre run for 28mm pipe at 12.5l/min so the bit of pipe from boiler to pump will have a total drop of 0.043m, PLUS the drop through the boiler, PLUS the drop through the index heating circuit, nothing to do with the F&E tank.
I find most systems work out best at around 1-2m drop for the index circuit (high pressure drops=faster water flow=more noise). For larger systems balancing is a must but on smaller ones you can spend so much time fiddling around for little difference if any. Heat output from radiators is calculated using standard temperature drops across the radiator, usually 11C, though most are now also quoting 20C. The drop is not the issue, it is the mean temperature across the rad that counts: if the output from a rad is calculated at 82/71C flow and return (mean 76.5C) and you've got 82/80C (mean 81C) the output will be higher. Therefore you could 1) turn the boiler down a few degrees, 2) screw down the lockshield valve or 3) drop the pump speed to achieve much the same effect. TRVs will also affect the system as they close and force more water through open rads and reduce the boiler flow (do you have a diff pressure valve on the system?). Hope this is some use.
 
It may also be worth mentioning that hot water circulates through a radiator for two reasons:

1/ Natural gravity circulation due to water cooling and becoming denser as it gives up some of its heat.

2/ A difference in pressure between the flow and return connections,ie a higher pressure at the flow than at the return-the greater the pressure drop per metre of pipe and the longer the distance between connections themore the circulaing pressure.

Design temperature drops for radiators is usually 10C.

This subject has eveloped into a very interesting thread.
 
d.2 is the minimum time that the boiler will wait after cycling off before cycling back on again. There is also a required minimum temperature drop. Once both the d.2 time and the temperature drop have been reached then the burners come back on if still required.

Your numbers are way huge. Pump overrun should be set to a few minutes at most in most installations, perhaps 1-3 minutes. It is to stop heat soak through the heat exchanger overheating the water after the burners have been turned off. Circulating the water for long periods with the burners off may put you in the situation of using your hot water to heat up your flue which is kind of pointless, and also wastes electricity. Note however that the pump, by default, will continue to circulate the entire time that the thermostat is calling for heat even when the burners are cycled off. Double check that factoid with your fancy new controller but I suspect it still applies.

Anti-cycling time should be short enough that you maintain warm water running through the system but long enough that the burners can stay on for a reasonable length of time at each cycle. 50 minutes is just dumb. Your radiators will be nearly cold after that length of time, the pump will have been running for no reason wasting electricity and sending heat up the flue (until the water went cold!). Typically would be 5-10 minutes, but maybe longer if your boiler is a little over-sized.

It seems to me that you may be running into the inevitable consequence of gadgets that tone down the flow temperature to try and glide smoothly up to the thermostat set temperature. To maintain a low flow temperature requires a very low burner output and most boilers simply can't do it. The problem is compounded if several TRVs have closed, and they really should have if your wall stat is approaching turnoff. So if you want to play that game you'll have to accept that the boiler is going to cycle and potentially at quite a short interval.
 
d.2 is the minimum time that the boiler will wait after cycling off before cycling back on again. There is also a required minimum temperature drop. Once both the d.2 time and the temperature drop have been reached then the burners come back on if still required.

From observations and what's written in the manual, it's the MAX time (not minimum!) that the boiler will wait before cycling... There does appear to be some relation to return temp and/or requested flow temp (from the VRT392) but I've not quite worked out what yet.

Your numbers are way huge.

Yep, d.2 is currently set to 60 :) (whilst I observe & monitor). - d.1 (pump overrun) is now set at 15mins.

Note however that the pump, by default, will continue to circulate the entire time that the thermostat is calling for heat even when the burners are cycled off. Double check that factoid with your fancy new controller but I suspect it still applies.

Correct. I've noticed that anytime the CH is scheduled ON, the pump is running continuously, e.g. if the CH is scheduled to start at 07:00 and end at 19:00 the pump will be running for 12hrs solid. Whilst in 'analog' (modulating) mode, the VRT392 appears to work by ALWAYS requesting heat but at various flow temperatures, so even when the room stat = the actual room temp, strangely there is still a 'demand' for heat at the boiler.

e.g. With the actual room temp at 19.5C and the VRT392 set temp at 19C, it is still requesting 'heat' but with a flow temp of only 21C. If the actual flow temp is >21C (e.g. most of the time) the burner doesn't need to fire in this situation.

It seems to me that you may be running into the inevitable consequence of gadgets that tone down the flow temperature to try and glide smoothly up to the thermostat set temperature. To maintain a low flow temperature requires a very low burner output and most boilers simply can't do it.

Whilst I was watching yesterday, the sequence of 'short cycling' went something like this:

1) Actual room temp @ 19C, VRT392 set temp @ 19C
2) Flow temperature demand was 38C
3) ecoTEC plus 418 fires for approx 5 seconds, then stops as the flow temperature reaches 42C.
4) There is then a delay of approx 10-20 seconds before the burner refires for another 5 seconds, stopping when the flow temp reaches 42C
5) Boiler then goes into pump overrun for d.1 time limit (15mins)
6) Boiler then changes to anti-cycle mode (d.2) for varying lengths of time

edit: I'm guessing at 3,4, it was looking at the return temp!? It changes so quick I couldn't move to d.41 (return temp) in time to check :(

It would appear that the VRT392 trys to keep the same room temperature by varing the flow temp requested. This works well when there is a big gap between actual room temp and desired temp or when the room temp drops quickly e.g. it's very cold outside (all = higher flow temp demand). The short cycling appears to happen when there is a very low flow temp demand. The boiler fires, very quickly gets to set temp, then stops.

That to me says the VRT392 is requesting too small a heat demand, below the minimum the boiler can deliver i.e. It can't modulate down to a low enough temp (Note: The 418 can modulate down to 5kW, do (m)any other boilers go lower?)

So if you want to play that game you'll have to accept that the boiler is going to cycle and potentially at quite a short interval.

I was expecting to find some kind of setting to limit this behaviour in some way, perhaps having a minimum target temp limit? or something else.... Looking through the VRT430 manual, that does have a minimum target temp setting but it's not present on the VRT392 :(

Given the above information, does anyone have any suggestions on how to cut down / eliminate the short cycling?
 
I have to admit I don't entirely understand how to control the Vaillant anti-cycling delay. In fact I don't think you can!

What I think happens is that boiler calculates its own length of time for the burners to be off, based on various criteria, and the d.2 setting is simply the maximum that this will go up to. So with d.2 set to 60 minutes, the boiler will do what the hell it likes provided the burners aren't forced off for more than 60 minutes. The anti-cycling delay that is calculated is shorter when the flow temperature is hotter but I don't know what other factors are involved. How long is it at your 21C flow?

When you say in step 6 "anti-cycle mode (d.2)", you actually get a display of 5.8, right? d.67 should show you the remaining anti-cycle delay although of course you could just sit and watch it. Interesting that anti-cycle doesn't kick in until it has gone through a couple of short cycles.

Can you not control how low a flow the VRT392 will request? Only on the more expensive model? Frankly a flow of 21C is just pointless on a conventional radiator system, worse than useless, and will be wasting you money. Less than 40C is probably pointless although no doubt it could be satisfying to some people to have mildly warm radiators on 18 hours a day.
 
Im looking forward to the post that asks how to restore factory settings :LOL:

That's easy... In case others don't know:

On the VRT392 hold down both dials for 10 seconds and follow prompts.

On the ecoTEC boiler, select d.97, change value to 17, hold i until it stops flashing then change d.96 to 1 and hold down i until 1 stops flashing ;)
 
I wonder if the short-cycling might be influenced by radiator flow? If the radiator flow is much less than the boiler flow, the by-pass will open and the boiler will heat up very quickly.

In the interest of being bloody nosey ;), what happens if you open all the TRVs?
 

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