Door trimming

[jaylockwood1978]

Rookie mistake! I need to trim the bottom off an old wooden internal door due to new carpets. I used a jigsaw with a guide clamped to the door and thought I’d done a great job until I realised the underside had veered inwards and taken a chunk out that I didn’t need! Lovely straight line on top though

I’ve realised I probably should have invested or borrowed a circular saw but moving forwards I can only see two options.

1. Make good and cut new straight line at the deepest point but this could leave the door with a large gap.
2. Glue and screw the cut off section back on and then, using a circular saw and guide, cut off the original intended bit again, leaving the unintended piece then still glued and screwed in. Then fill, sand etc.

I’m inclined towards option 2 but do you think glueing and screwing would hold this section in place while I cut through again with a circular saw and would a circular saw go through the screws ok?

I know a new door would probably be easier but they are the original 1930’s doors we are trying to restore. Any ideas welcome

 

[leej90]

You could cut off what you need to to make the bottom square again and then glue a piece of strip wood the required thickness?

I've just invested in an electric plane. Worked really well for the same purpose of taking a few mm of the bottom of the doors for the carpet.

I'm using the strip wood idea to build up the withd of a door up to 700mm. Had to get a smaller door and build it up to size. The standard door size couldn't be cut down enough.

 

[jaylockwood1978]

What’s the biggest depth you reckon you could tackle with a plane? I like this idea but it would mean buying a circular saw and an electric plane? Also could I just attach the section I sawed off, rather than a piece of strip wood?

 

[leej90]

The one I've brought does about 3mm depth at a time on its max setting so a few passes is need be but I guess if it is alot more then a saw would be better.

 

[jaylockwood1978]

That would probably work. I’m gutted I used the jigsaw!! Hope I haven’t ruined the door

 

[leej90]

Yes I tried a jig saw too and the blade just went diagonal. I'm not sure if I had the wrong blade or a jigsaw isn't meant for cutting that thick.
I have a skill saw that would have worked perfectly. But last couple of times I've used it when passing through the wood it's felt like it's got stuck and then jumped out. Scared the hell out of me and now I don't want to use it again incase I loose an arm!

 

[opps]

What’s the biggest depth you reckon you could tackle with a plane? I like this idea but it would mean buying a circular saw and an electric plane? Also could I just attach the section I sawed off, rather than a piece of strip wood?

Ideally you would use epoxy resin to glue the section back on. They are not cheap though, and you may need to to buy a dedicated skeleton gun to dispense it.

I recently had to extend the height of a new door. I used pva glue and wooden dowels. I did use screws to pull it together and then removed them once the glue had cured.

My go to for trimming doors is a track saw.

eg https://www.festool.co.uk/products/sawing/circular-saws/576706---ts-55-febq-plus-gb-240v

There are much cheaper versions though.

 

[Mr Chibs]

Glue it back up and screw for temporary clamping, remove them before you cut, (save your blade) you can always screw back in once you've made your change.

Clamp a straight edge to your door so you can slide the circular saw along it.
If using a cordless, adjust the depth and cut the door in say 3 passes, making the blade depth gauge deeper each time.

Hopefully you won't need to plane it, just sand.

 

[opps]

Glue it back up and screw for temporary clamping, remove them before you cut, (save your blade) you can always screw back in once you've made your change.

Clamp a straight edge to your door so you can slide the circular saw along it.
If using a cordless, adjust the depth and cut the door in say 3 passes, making the blade depth gauge deeper each time.

Hopefully you won't need to plane it, just sand.

I strongly advise against leaving screws in doors. If someone comes along later to trim the door, at best, their planer blades will shatter. It may however result in injury.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

My go to for trimming doors is a track saw.

eg https://www.festool.co.uk/products/sawing/circular-saws/576706---ts-55-febq-plus-gb-240v

There are much cheaper versions though.

My go to, is a circular saw, combined with a simple gadget I made myself...

A length of ply, a little wider than the base of the saw, long enough for the cut, to which is firmly fixed a timer baton along the length. The baton then becomes your guide for the saw. Run the saw along the ply, guided by the timber and it will cut the width of the ply to precisely match itself and will be ready to use, when you need it. In use, you simply G-clamp it onto the door, matching the ply edge to the marks on the door. Obviously, it only works with the circular saw it was set up with.

 

[opps]

My go to, is a circular saw, combined with a simple gadget I made myself...

A length of ply, a little wider than the base of the saw, long enough for the cut, to which is firmly fixed a timer baton along the length. The baton then becomes your guide for the saw. Run the saw along the ply, guided by the timber and it will cut the width of the ply to precisely match itself and will be ready to use, when you need it. In use, you simply G-clamp it onto the door, matching the ply edge to the marks on the door. Obviously, it only works with the circular saw it was set up with.

Fair play. However, the advantage of a decent track saw is that you line up the saw to your pencil cut line. And the clamps are on the underside.

That said, if your ply is sufficiently wide, there will be sufficient space for the clamps.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Fair play. However, the advantage of a decent track saw is that you line up the saw to your pencil cut line. And the clamps are on the underside.

That said, if your ply is sufficiently wide, there will be sufficient space for the clamps.

The clamps, hook onto the top of the timber baton, so the saw has a clear run end to end.