Dot and Dab

Joined
12 Nov 2003
Messages
247
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Could anyone tell me what substance is used to to actually bond the plasterboard to the wall when dot and dabbing. And also, can plasterboard be dot and dabbed over an existing (but poor quality) plastering job?

Thirdly, can I get away without having to get the plasterboard skimmed afterwards? That is, can I simply fill the joints and paint or paper? The reason I ask is the cost of having walls skimmed.
 
Sponsored Links
sterose said:
Could anyone tell me what substance is used to to actually bond the plasterboard to the wall when dot and dabbing. And also, can plasterboard be dot and dabbed over an existing (but poor quality) plastering job?
For a piece of mind, chop out a few holes section back to the brick wall for the dot n dab adhesive to bond onto after sealing it unibond.
Thirdly, can I get away without having to get the plasterboard skimmed afterwards? That is, can I simply fill the joints and paint or paper? The reason I ask is the cost of having walls skimmed.
Go for tapered plasterboard and use the self-adhesive tape for bonding the joints then use joint filler, see here for more info & click onto DRYWALL ACCESSORIES. I have no idea what gauge lining paper to use, some on here will know.
 
Sponsored Links
This advice is given with all due respect and not in the belief I am an expert (I'm not) but...

I just spent 4 days on a dry-lining course having previously read every guide on the net I could find and even buying 2 books dedicated to the subject. They tell you 80% of what to do but it's the other 20% they don't tell you which is the key to getting nice results. You will be very lucky to get acceptable results without personal instruction and practice. You'll probably also find you won't get the board up level in the 1st place or with sufficent adhesive without knowing a few things. And the biggest shock I had was that there is a Building Regs implication. The perimeter of the wall and all box cutouts have to have a solid line of dab to prevent a chimney effect in the event of a fire. Phew...

The course I went on cost £325 and also covered metal-stud partitions and suspended ceilings. Total bargain which will pay for itself (if I do it right) almost straight-away with labour rates at £200 a day.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top