Should do, but you can always cut the back layer bigger than the front if you have access behind or before hand.
The screws should tighten onto any thickness.
The other option is to cut the front layer wider and recess the back box.
In my experiance plasterboard backboxes work by having "wings" that are pushed out the side of the box. The plate screws then draw these wings forward clamping the plasterboard.
So the question is are the wings on the box far enough back to push out behind the plasterboard. If they are then you are fine, if they are not then I don't think you will be able to install the box at all. I don't think a scenario where you can fit the accessory but the box doesn't grip the wall is a likely outcome.
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1959096.pdf claims that for appleby dry lining boxes the acceptable thickness range is 6.35 to 15mm. It seems plasterboard is 9.5 or 12.5mm thick so two sheets would be 19mm or 25mm which is out of spec.
Mine didn't, and I used 47mm boxes. I had to cut the rear plasterboard away, which is actually quite tricky when working from the front through the hole.
Mine didn't, and I used 47mm boxes. I had to cut the rear plasterboard away, which is actually quite tricky when working from the front through the hole.
In my xperience, it can certainly be pretty difficut with a 'single' box. However, with a double' box, there is usually enough space to get the likes of a Stanley knife in and gradually 'pare away' at the back layer of plasterboard.
Another approach, if one is very careful and doesn't mind the clouds of plaster dust, is to use a router with the (largeish, straight) bit adjusted so that it 'gets' just the back sheet. That approach works with single, as well as double, boxes.
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