Drill bit advice

[petej42]

Can anyone suggest the best type of bit to drill 6mm diameter holes in some 10mm hardwood dowel. The dowels are 180mm long and the hole needs to be down the whole length.
What type of should I be looking at Twist, Auger or something else and can anyone suggest a good approach to getting a good straight bore
Thanks

 

[Burnerman]

if you only have a hand held drill, you are going to have a massive problem keeping the drill bit straight.....if you have access to a lathe or at least a pillar drill then you have a greater chance of success.
For 6mm holes I'd use an HSS jobber drill bit, possibly using a smaller diameter drill first - which will naturally tend to drift off course.
Is it possible to find ready drilled dowel somewhere - model shops maybe?
John

 

[^woody^]

Long flat bit.

The bit is not the problem, how you plan to start it and keep it parallel is.

 

[shagster]

I do think the bit is still a problem. 6mm x ~200mm or more is long and thin, I'd want to go in a shop and roll a few on the counter to check them before walking out. I've had to take back shorter and fatter bits than that.

Even if I had a pillar drill with sufficient depth and perfectly straight bit I'd expect the bearings to bring it off center towards the bottom of the hole. Also, I wouldn't expect the dowel to be exactly straight in any case, giving more possible error.

I think the only way this can be done is to start with a larger dia. dowel, drill the hole, then use a lathe to reduce the outer diameter.

 

[Burnerman]

There's a fair selection of 10mm thick wall tubing in stainless steel on Amazon......would that do instead?
John

 

[petej42]

The hollow dowel is a shaft for a wooden clock which needs to take a 6mm dowel inside, the hole actually needs to be about 6.1mm to allow the inner dowel to turn. As it is wooden clock, I'd rather not use steel. I do have access to a hobby pillar drill but the distance between the Chuck and the base is only 25cm. I do have a small lathe however, but I don't know how I would keep the dowel steady whilst making the hole.
I could try drilling into larger dowel, but I think I would still get the same problem keeping the dowel centred when trying to reduce the outside diameter.
Would a jobber bit work for the whole length or would I need to use something else after the hole had been started like the flat (spade?) Bit

 

[RandomGrinch]

For a hardwood appearance, a tufnol tube maybe an alternative?

Edit:
Though very expensive for small quantities...

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/plastic-tubes/1941198/

 

[Munroast]

Drill half way down, flip it over and drill through from the other side.

it is a difficult one you are trying, a wooden 7" pipe of 10mm diameter with a 2mm thick wall, the choice of wood and getting the grain right is going to be the skilful bit.

 

[shagster]

Disclaimer: I've never used a lathe in my life, but I've seen it in videos. If you want to reduce a larger dowel I'd get some 6mm steel rod (M6 threaded rod may be cheaper) cut that to length and put it in the hole, and then I think people normally hot glue some plates of wood to each end to turn it, as I presume the bit of the lathe that connects to the dowel may split it otherwise.

 

[opps]

I do think the bit is still a problem. 6mm x ~200mm or more is long and thin, I'd want to go in a shop and roll a few on the counter to check them before walking out. I've had to take back shorter and fatter bits than that.

With regards to drill bits , Thus far I have been happy with my purchases from Orbital Fastings. I have'nt use the drill bit that I am linking to though

https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/...t-600mm-long-5mm-shank-diameter-2-608-597-173