drill torque

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Whats a decent torque for a corded drill? Ive treid using the timberlok screws (the 10 inch long jobbies) for screwing softwood sleepers together, and my 18 volt cordless dewalt and cheapy corded drill arent quite up to it. I dont want to spend too much so anyone got any ideas?
 
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Mine, knocks out around 80 Nm max torque, enough to give you a nasty whack in the chops when the screw jams. It a Makita 8444DWFE3
 
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its not hamer action as such its concentrating all the tork into short smooth orbital burst
hammer was just a term to replicate the description of impact driver
 
Surely the screw would simply snap. Also wouldn't the action of an impact wrench simply murder the screw?
 
to be honest i dont know how exactly they work ;)
but apparently they are great

if the bit is firmly in the screw i dont see how it can chew it up ;)
 
Don't they use a "rocking dog" mechanism, similar to hammer action, I would of thought that this would pound the c**p out of a screw, could well be wrong though, never even thought of using an impact wrench on a screw :D
 
Eddie M said:
Don't they use a "rocking dog" mechanism, similar to hammer action, I would of thought that this would pound the c**p out of a screw, could well be wrong though, never even thought of using an impact wrench on a screw :D

well i am making assumptions as i dont know :rolleyes:
but as you might expect they will obviously be set up for rotational movement
i think its a combination so when it rotates it also pushes firmly into the head
but just a guess i will tell you next week when my impact driver turns up :D
 
Hope the screw doesn't jam, my "weedy" 80Nm drill gives you a good whack when it jams, I dread to think what 5 times the torque is gonna do! Maybe you won't be posting for some time, while your broken wrists heal :LOL:
 
i think maybe its subtle but quick part turns so it wont throw any body
just kick back and forth :LOL:
 
Thermo:

I'm gonna presume you're already predrilling the 10 inch holes in the wood before driving the screw. If so , what I've found works well is to simply dip the screw in some light oil before driving it in to reduce friction substantially. Also, if you use a long pipe cleaner (which you can find in craft stores) to pre-oil the hole, that will help as well.
And, if that still doesn't solve the problem, then I'd predrill a slightly larger hole to reduce friction more.

I don't believe you could use an impact wrench as a drill, or at least, not more than once or twice. You see, even if you could figure out a way to mount a chuck on a 1/2 inch drive without it wobbling all over the place, regular "Jacobs-type" drill chucks are press fit together, and using them on an impact wrench is just going to wreck the chuck.

That's why on a rotary hammer (which will typically have a hammer only mode, drill only mode and hammer drill mode, they won't use an ordinary drill chuck. They'll use an SDS chuck or spline drive which will take the pounding that an ordinary drill chuck couldn't. And, if the tool comes with an ordinary chuck accessory that can be put in the SDS chuck so that you can use non-sds drill bits, there won't be any warranty on that chuck accessory if you use it in hammer only or hammer drill mode.

And, that's just the force of a rotary hammer pounding on the end of the chuck. An impact wrench (even a cordless impact wrench) is going to deliver a stronger wollop to the chuck than a hammer drill, even a rotary hammer drill.
 

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