Drilling straight through to brick on single skin wall

[JS7319]

I'm planning for my garage conversion over the coming weeks. The first area for me to clarify is whether I should be drilling screws through the timber frame straight into the single leaf wall. If I do so, wouldn't I be compromising the moisture barrier that sits against the brick wall by making holes not only in that, but also in the brickwork it is supposed to be a barrier from?

Also is the any use in painting the interior brickwork with a DPM solution if I'm going to be using a membrane anyway?

 

[^woody^]

Drilling through for what?

Generally, vapour barriers of timber frames should not be broken, or resealed if they are

 

[JS7319]

So drilling through the timber batten to secure it to the single leaf brick wall. The membrane which sits against the wall is the DPM which is what will be punctured via the screw (not the vapour barrier)

If this isn't to be broken how do people secure the timber stud work to single leaf brick walls?

 

[^woody^]

The frame should be independent, fixed to floor and roof.

 

[JS7319]

How will it be fixed to the floor, not via screws I take it?

Also, if battens are not secured to walls, what are screws like this for: https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-100mm-100-pack/3839h

 

[SFK]

Q:

Also, if battens are not secured to walls, what are screws like this for: https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-100mm-100-pack/3839h

A: Window Frames.

When SFix say:
Ideal for fixing uPVC and timber frames directly to masonry
they mean
Ideal for fixing uPVC and timber window frames directly to masonry

 

[SFK]

Duplicate

 

[Alastairreid]

Build the stud work independent from the external skin, leave a 50mm airgap, fill with insulation, then vapour barrier stapled to warm side of stud.

 

[JS7319]

How will the stud work be secured to the floor (I suspect same issue with screwing through brick walls means you can't screw through the floor either as DPM will be punctured).

I've been reading on similar threads and there's a suggestion by someone for a 25mm airgap, but I can't see where this would go, or why it'd be needed?

 

[Alastairreid]

How will the stud work be secured to the floor

The floor slab will be a minimum 100mm thick with the dpm beneath..you wont puncture the dpm.

Is the conversion being done to regs.?

 

[JS7319]

We don't have the headroom to increase the floor of that thickness - but the garage is already sitting above ground level so I suspect that has already been done? Can I lay down a DPM directly on the concrete floor as it is and insulate with a vapour barrier then add flooring?

The garage is detached and under 30m2 so no application will need require for regs.

 

[Alastairreid]

I mean the existing floor slab will be a minimum 100mm.
dpm and vapour barrier are the same thing..
what are you using the garage for?

 

[JS7319]

OK - that will be fine then, I can drill straight through the existing concrete floor. What generally is laid over the concrete floor before the carpet or hardwood flooring is put down? (I assumed it would've been another moisture barrier, insulation and that's it.

Garage will be used as an office space.

 

[Alastairreid]

Normally a screed and then the floor covering.
You will need to find out if there is a dpm under the existing slab, there is also insulation to consider..

 

[^woody^]

The sole plates of timber frames are fixed through DPCs with no problems