Dripping tap pipe to solder?

[Smileysmile]

Hi guys, I am currently re doing my downstairs toilet/tiles etc
I gutted the whole room. I cut the wash basin taps 15mm pipe ends so when it comes to fit the wall tiles will have a clean fit over the pipes. The thing is I need to add extra length onto the existing pipes to allow them to protrude beyond the new plasterboard and tiles. I have 2 x solder rings to solder onto the ends. I am okay with the cold tap but having turned off gate valves in airing cupboard the hot tap pipe still drips not allowing me to solder the 15mm solder ring coupler. I tried bread but that's no good. I also left all taps open. I think I can do this myself without a plumber.

For now I have placed caps on them (see attached photo) Is there a special tool that will plug the pipe and then pull it out whilst soldering ring on?



Why is it still dripping? It is a good job I had a bucket handy as the pressure of water that came out when removed the bread or cap... Any help would be gratefully appreciated

Untitled

• Smileysmile
• 11 Feb 2015
• 1

 

[mazperks]

H Smiley, you need to turn off cold supply to your supply tank and drain down via hot tap, then drain your pipe.
Might be a good idea to change the (passing) valve while drained down.

 

[Madrab]

Gate valve feeding the cylinder is passing, happens all the time. Open up all the other hot water taps and pull the cap off and drain the pipe and see if that stops it long enough to allow you to solder.

Really need to sort the gate valve though and that needs you to either drain the cold water cistern or cut a new valve in below the current one.

 

[stardanny]

Bung the cold water tank outlet that supply the hot water cylinder, then let pipe dry and carry on solder. While doing that, replace gate valve.

Daniel.

 

[Smileysmile]

Thanks for the replies.

My house was built in 2001. There are several red coloured gate valves.
One pipe falls down from loft so turned that off. The pipe coming from the bottom of cylinder, gate valve closed. To be honest I have closed them all and opened all taps in the house. Am I not giving the pipe enough time to stop dripping? Surely having closed all the gate valves it would stop dripping?

Alternative is? Drain the whole cylinder? But then I have closed off water that comes of of the cylinder. The whole purpose of gate valves is not having to drain the whole tank? Right?

 

[mazperks]

If theres room you could put in a service valve, and add your extension pipe to that, no soldering.
Unfortunately gate valves are prone to passing, especially in funny water areas.

 

[Smileysmile]

you mean an isolating valve? I thought there would be a tool to block the pipe with wire attached to pull it out when soldered

 

[stardanny]

I used this, bought it when I was on holiday in USA, brilliant useful when renewing lever ball valves, fitting etc.

http://toolmonger.com/2008/10/21/a-non-political-water-gate/

Daniel.

 

[Smileysmile]

Thanks Danny. Can't seem to find an online UK supplier for the water gate..yet

Might go down the service valve idea but then that would be hidden by the new plasterboard and tiles. Danger of leaking.

 

[leakydave]

A wet/dry vac might be able to suck a large volume of water out or use a small bore plastic tube to suck/syphon water out from below your tee connection.

You may then be able to quickly solder it before the drip 'reappears'...

... but normally I would change the passing gate-valve for a full bore lever valve.