drop down pipes installation

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I have been unable in this area (W.London-S.Bucks) to get a plumber to undertake a drop down CH installation in my bangalwo, as the in concrete floor pipes are leaking BADLY.

They all seem to avoid doing this work.

The system is the original of a single pipe type, with a shut of valve only on one side of each rad.

It was powered from a conventional system in the utility room, which was done away with to enlarge the kitchen 6-7 yrs ago.

Since then the above system is powered by a Potterton Kingfisher M F 60 boiler, with an “OSO” Unvented Water heater, Indirect 250 & new header tank, all installed in the garage.

In the loft very accessible are the 22mm copper pipes one from the rising main in kitchen to the boiler in the garage, & the two hot water pipes going to the kitchen from the boiler/cylinder in the garage feeding the CH & taps.

Although am not a plumber, it seems it should be a simple process for the expert to feed manifolds from the above mentioned pipes, then distribute pipes to 6-7 room corners & drop the pipes for new dbl convector rads on each side of each wall.

Although I did a lot of diy plumbing in my time, am now old to undertake the manual work.

There is a young aprentice that would help on this.

Can you give us some tips on such an installation, i.e. on venting/bleeding/draining and other with such an unconventional system.

Thanking you, and a Healthy prosperous New Year, nick
 
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I would go for surface mount low level pipes myself, but if you must have drop down, make sure there is a drain point for every rad
 
WTF is wrong with drops in a Bungalow :rolleyes: too much like work for the ££££££Corgi`s :?: :rolleyes: a drop to each rad concealed behind the curtains and a whole roofspace to do a classic layout :idea:.
 
Couldn't agree more, have fitted hundreds of systems that drop down from above, the pipes can be behind curtains or in the corners.

The only objection as far as I'm concerned is the intended use of manifolds and microbore pipe, on that alone I would refuse the job.
 
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So, from your saying manifolds are only for microbore pipes only?

I did not intend to use microbore as they say they clog easily & are not as efficient as 15mm.

Unfortunately the rads will not be under windows for curtains to hide them.

Would it be a good idea to put them in those square white plastick runs that electricians use for large cables, or is wooden boxing better?.

Do I understand that 15mm tappings from the 22mm pipes in the loft leading directly to each room corner & droping down to rads with a drain in each, is your general advice?

I do not understand this sentence: "....WTF is wrong with drops in a Bungalow too much like work for the ££££££Corgi`s ........." nick
 
Just tee of the main ring and drop to each area/rad, I would consider 28mm to start the main circuit as you would need a tad more push on a drop system.

The comment was aimed at modern plumbers or CC as we call them, not much clue except chucking a load of plastic pipe about the place.
 
IMO a 15mm pipe, painted to blend in with the walls, is less obtrusive than if boxed in
 
I agree with you all, a standard and very easy system to install if the loft is empty.

As said you'll never see the pipes behind the curtains and painted.
 
Thank you all again,

Please give more detail on the sentence below.

"..........consider 28mm to start the main circuit as you would need a tad more push on a drop system..........."

The loft is clear, except a couple of walk ways to lift in the midle.

There are two 22mm CH pipes feed & return (one line system though) running one end to the other of the long loft.

What shall I advise the lad to do, tee of from the 22mm pipes into 28mm full length & distribute from those to the rooms ? nick
 
Stick to the 22mm F & R there will be no problems on a system this size.

You only need to go to 28mm if the rad heat output in total is >18Kw.

Make sure he fits a couple of auto air vents at the highest point in the pipe work in the loft.
 
I do not understand this sentence: "....WTF is wrong with drops in a Bungalow too much like work for the ££££££Corgi`s ........." nick
...I hope you understand WTF...the rest is my usual digs @ the certain type of "gasfitter" who, under the -perfectly legitimate and worthwhile safety aspects of C.O.R.G.I. membership--uses said membership to get the greatest amount of money for the least amount of work..For example a boiler change would return aprox. £600+ for a day`s work. The industry is being splintered by the "gasfitter" and the "Foreign national Plumber" who works for £60. a day not £600. If the Government had had a cohesive policy for registering both plumbers+ gasfitters and licenced all work..as in Aus. (afaik)then ....but this is britain :rolleyes: thankfully I`m a retired plumber
 
Thank you all again,

There are two 22mm CH pipes feed & return (one line system though) running one end to the other of the long loft.

Reading that are you saying it's a one pipe system, if so split the loop and convert to a two pipe system, your plumber should know what to do.
 
I would advise laying the pipes in the floor screed in nicely cut channels.
Modern chasers have cutting depths up to 65mm which is more than enough for 22mm piping+ insulation.


And no unsightly pipes down the walls or in corners.
Installing the pipework is then a piece of cake in comparison to crawling around a loft space.
 
thanx "Gas4you", the 22mm F & R have already an auto air vent each sticking out.

I will get the lad to go the difficult route, near the corners towrds the eves, to position the pipes behind the curtains.

Would you recomend nowadays the pushfit joins or traditional soldering.

nick
 
Pushfit on display looks hideous.
It can be very handy - at the top of your drops in the eaves perhaps, but I wouldn't want it in my house anywhere awkward to get at or where a leak would be a problem.
 

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