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Dry verge retro fitting?

Discussion in 'Roofing and Guttering' started by Gazman16, 15 Oct 2016.

  1. Gazman16

    Gazman16

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    Hello guys

    Does anyone know of any good links or videos for guides to retro fitting dry verge?
    All the guides and videos I have found are mainly for newbuild or a few cowboy jobs.

    Basically I will be doing fascias, Soffits and guttering for a friend soon (I have been doing these for 20 odd years so no problem there). The house is on the side of a hill and will need scaffolding so I was going to suggest we do the verges at the same time as the materials are silly cheap we may as well make the most of the scaffolding.

    I know we may have to strip back 3 rows of tiles to extend the batons (I am hoping the existing ones are in good enough condition that we can fix a baton length-wise to the ends though).
    I know we will need to remove all the mortar.

    What I'm not sure about is the old cement/asbestos board, It and the tiles currently overhang the fascia by about 90mm. The newbuild videos show no cement board with the dry verge fitted tight to the fascia, This would mean removing the board and cutting back the tiles.
    Not impossible but it would start to turn it into quite a big job.

    Is that necessary or can the cement board stay?
    Some videos/photos of non bodged job would be great.
     
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  3. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    Some makes of the plastic verge sections go over the existing undercloak and mortar, but they look crap.

    Otherwise you need to remove the undercloak and mortar.

    Just read the instructions from which ever type you plan to use.
     
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  4. Gazman16

    Gazman16

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    I was going to use Eurocell but the instructions for retro fitting are rubbish:
    RETRO FIT If dry verge units are to be
    fitted to existing buildings all of the old
    under-cloak and mortar bedding should be
    removed prior to fixing. A timber batten can
    then be installed running from the eave to
    ridge, this batten should protrude 30mm
    over the barge board or brick work / render
    for the units to fix into (as per step 1a).

    If I remove the cement board there would be a gap underneath, 90mm overhang of tiles from the fascia (I'm guessing the verges will sit approx 40-60mm over the tile?) so I would be left with a 30-50mm gap underneath. So I'm guessing I would have to cut back all the tiles by that much?

    I have googled several makes of dry verge but all of their instructions for retrofitting are as rubbish as Eurocells from what I have seen.
    If anyone has links to better instructions or videos that would be great?
    Obviously if I can retain the cement board it would save my mate quite a bit in labor costs + asbestos disposal.
     
  5. noseall

    noseall

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    oops.
     
  6. noseall

    noseall

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    You seem to have an unusually large overhang. 50mm is normal.
    Yes, you will either have to cut the tiles down or thicken/batten out the point at which the tile meets the barge.
     
    Last edited: 16 Oct 2016
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  7. Gazman16

    Gazman16

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    I'm overestimating a little but its at least 60-70mm
     
  8. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    It al depends on the type you are using. Some will cloak the undercloak, some wont. If there is a barge board you can potentially pack that out and remove the under cloak.

    Otherwise you might need to remove the undercloak and cut the tiles back so that the plastic verge sits closer to the wall or barge board.

    It really is not difficult. It all depends on the type you are using, and specifically the distance it needs from the wall or barge board.

    You would be better off selecting a type to suit the roof, rather than getting a particular one and messing about getting it to fit
     
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  10. catlad

    catlad

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    Have you considered the continuous dry verge.
     
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  11. Gazman16

    Gazman16

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    I have but I know even less about continuous dry verge than the other stuff. Eurocell only has one type, National plastics have 2 pages of different types!
    Again the large overhang I have may be a problem and again the only instructions and videos I could find are for building it in with the roof and not for retrofitting.

    The ones I have seen fitted to places (ones I usually remove or repair for people) seem to be a question mark shape that are just screwed to the fascia board. I have always thought these ones were a bodge fitted by travelers though and I cant seem to find anywhere that sells it.
     
  12. catlad

    catlad

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    I have used a system that is inbetween made by a company
    called manthorpe about 3' lengths if I remember right.
     
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  13. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    I've fitted many continuous dry verges, and only specify continuous systems instead of those ugly individual things.

    Klober and European Plastics pruducts are nice to look at and fit.

    There tends to be some adaptation of the battens - short ones and rotten ends mainly, and the existing verge needs to be removed. But the result is much much better.
     
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  14. Gazman16

    Gazman16

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    Cheers Woody and Catlad. I will Google those systems and see what I can find out.
     
  15. Roof slater

    Roof slater

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    Do the gable ends before the front and back, i always take off exsisting fascias and soffits, if I had a 90mm over hang and my verge unit required 40mm tile overhang then pack out the joice by 50mm before fitting pvc then you just need to fit verge unit. Could be tricky getting some of the verge units in with the undercloak still there but should be possible. I put 2 screws in each verge unit into the fascia no need to extend battens
     
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