Drylinging Garage- Help

[dotnetdave]

Hi All,

I am planning on drylinging my garage just to make it a little more comfortable when working in there and have been reading various forums about how i shoudl go about this but there seems to be so much conflicting advice. So from what i have read this is my current plan, and would like anyone to confirm or correct what i have.

The garage is attached to the house and has a pitched room with loft area, the outer wall and rear wall are of single brick construction with piers and the DPC layer is 2 bricks about the garage floor. So here is the plan

1) Attach 50x50 battens to the walls at 400mm centres, also having a batten at the top and bottom to affix the plasterboard to. In terms of fixing the battens to the wall do i need to place any DPC between the batten and wall, i have looked at using either frame fixings or masonary screws.

2) Push fit xtratherm xt\pr 50mm insulation board inbetween the battens this is a foil covered board so the foil will face inwards away from the wall. Cover the exposed battens with foil tap to create a continuous VPC.

3) Fix 12.5mm standard plasterboard over the top and affix to the battens using drywall screws at 150 centres. I have read that you should only screw around the outside of the board and now down the batten which would be in the middle of the room.

4) Once all walls are complete the ceiling will then be plasterboarded as well and the same insulation placed between the joists.

Let me know what people think
Dave

 

[^woody^]

A vertical DPM up any exterior wall before the battens is advisable

I think that just insulating between 50mm battens and boarding across the inner face may risk pattern staining of the line of [colder] timber battens. A thinner layer of insulation across the whole internal face prior to plasterboards would prevent this

 

[dotnetdave]

A vertical DPM up any exterior wall before the battens is advisable

I think that just insulating between 50mm battens and boarding across the inner face may risk pattern staining of the line of [colder] timber battens. A thinner layer of insulation across the whole internal face prior to plasterboards would prevent this

Thanks for the reponse woody, is the vertical DPM up the wall only behind where the battens are attached or shoudl it cover the entire wall ? would placeing the foil tap so that it covers the batten and effectively joins the 2 insulations boards together, help prevent this ?

 

[^woody^]

You would fit a DPM up the entire wall, as there is a risk of the wall becoming saturated and moisture running down the internal side of the wall

If you are fitting a new floor too, then you would need to think about the joint of the floor/wall DPM to keep any moisture out

There will be a marked difference in the temperature of a 50mm batten, and adjacent insulation. The way to avoid pattern staining would be to increase the batten depth or insulate across it.

If this conversion is a nice room, then you may want to avoid the possibility of pattern staining, if this is still just a garage or suchlike, then it probably wont matter, so just do what you proposed in the OP

 

[dotnetdave]

You would fit a DPM up the entire wall, as there is a risk of the wall becoming saturated and moisture running down the internal side of the wall

If you are fitting a new floor too, then you would need to think about the joint of the floor/wall DPM to keep any moisture out

There will be a marked difference in the temperature of a 50mm batten, and adjacent insulation. The way to avoid pattern staining would be to increase the batten depth or insulate across it.

If this conversion is a nice room, then you may want to avoid the possibility of pattern staining, if this is still just a garage or suchlike, then it probably wont matter, so just do what you proposed in the OP

Was hoping i didnt have to put DPM across the entire wall, the wall is bone dry and never gets wet\damp. Was sure i had read elsewhere that putting plastic against the brick was a bad thing as then you have a brick->plastic->insulation->foil->plasterboard sandwich.

The room will not be a "nice" room so to speak as after the plasterboard goes on just going to tape the joints and fill the screws and then a lick of paint, its just my escape from the wifey lol.

 

[^woody^]

If the external wall is not very exposed, and does not get soaked in prevailing rain, then you could do away with the vDPM

I don't know what you read, but the inside of a wall needs to be kept free of penetrating moisture, and that is what the vDPM does in situations like this one

 

[dotnetdave]

If the external wall is not very exposed, and does not get soaked in prevailing rain, then you could do away with the vDPM

I don't know what you read, but the inside of a wall needs to be kept free of penetrating moisture, and that is what the vDPM does in situations like this one

thanks woody and fully understand, in terms of fixing the battens to the wall what fixing\method would you recommend as obvisouly this will puncture the DPM. Also i will be putting a floor in as well as currently its a concreate slab, the intention was to put a DPM/DPC down that will lap up behind the walls to above where the existing DPC is

for the floor i read a few different suggestions but was going to just put down some 50mm polystyrene sheets to cover the floor and then have t&g chip board (glued edges) on top but non of this is fixed to the wall. On top of this will be the underly fibra tiles and then a cheap laminate.

 

[dotnetdave]

woody, would i be better just painting all of the walls and floor with this http://www.wickes.co.uk/Liquid-Damp-Proof-Membrane/invt/241218 rather than using poly sheets ?

 

[^woody^]

Don't worry about a few fixings puncturing the polythene, it is not a basement, and there is no pressure trying to push moisture in.

I would use a Hilti nail gun or similar which is 50x quicker and less laborious than plugs and screws. But obvious if you have to hire one and buy fixings etc costs will rise, so either manually masonry nail or use some hammer fix or suchlike

For the DPM laps, just remember to lap them the right way, so that any moisture running down the wall does not end up on the top of the floor DPM

 

[dotnetdave]

Don't worry about a few fixings puncturing the polythene, it is not a basement, and there is no pressure trying to push moisture in.

I would use a Hilti nail gun or similar which is 50x quicker and less laborious than plugs and screws. But obvious if you have to hire one and buy fixings etc costs will rise, so either manually masonry nail or use some hammer fix or suchlike

For the DPM laps, just remember to lap them the right way, so that any moisture running down the wall does not end up on the top of the floor DPM

Alas it will be manually done so either masonary nails or what is hammer fix ? also did you see my second post about using a liquid dpm instead ?

 

[^woody^]

Hammer fix are fixings which are plugs and screws in one, and you drill the hole then hammer the screw in. For some reason I can never get them to work so think they are crap . I prefer normal plugs and screws or frame anchors which work a bit differently and are always tight

Liquid DPM is a waste of time and money for this use

 

[dotnetdave]

Having thought about it and read a bit more would this be a better way to do the walls, i also realised i had not left anywhere in my original plan to run wiring unless it ran down the side of a batten.

1) Cover walls in either liquid sealer or poly sheet
2) Place 50x50 battens at top and botton of walls
3) Place xtratherm boards on to the wall wedging between the upper and lower battens and cover all joints with foil tape.
4) Fix vertical 25x(50 or 75) battens over the insulation board fixing through the board with frame fixings on 400mm centres.
5) Fix 12.5mm plaster board to the battens therby leaving a 25mm gap betwen the insulation and plasterboard which i can drop wiring through for sockets.

 

[wavetrain]

12mm chipbaord instead of flimsy plasterboard produces a very nice robust finish for a workshop.

Don't forget a vertical DPC between batten and wall and DPM sheet stapled to battens over the insultaion and directly underneath the sheet covering of chipboard.

Dotnetdave's advise above with a DPM on the brick wall would allow interstitual condensation to occur if the workshop had a higher humidy level than outside. However, this may be unlikely to occur in a workshop unless it is being used say as a brewery or such like.

If I was to do this project at home, I would follow my own suggestion however.

 

[dotnetdave]

12mm chipbaord instead of flimsy plasterboard produces a very nice robust finish for a workshop.

Don't forget a vertical DPC between batten and wall and DPM sheet stapled to battens over the insultaion and directly underneath the sheet covering of chipboard.

Dotnetdave's advise above with a DPM on the brick wall would allow interstitual condensation to occur if the workshop had a higher humidy level than outside. However, this may be unlikely to occur in a workshop unless it is being used say as a brewery or such like.

If I was to do this project at home, I would follow my own suggestion however.

its not a workshop more of a man space to chill out in over a beer or two etc lol i was planning on putting a DPM sheet on the wall then the insulation board which is foil backed, tape seams, batten on top fixed through insulation board and then plasterboard.