Dual flush toilet – cistern won’t fill up

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We've got an Ideal Standard Space corner toilet with a dual flush system. The flush button broke – it turns out as a result of the flush plate not being aligned with the button housing. In other words, the plastic screw had originally been forced into position and the bent rods eventually broke.

So, we're replacing the dual flush button.

We had to straighten up the cistern tank first as it wasn't level and the valve canister was just too out of whack. Now it's sitting much better.

We've also adjusted the valve canister height in order to properly fit the securing plastic screw. But the cistern now won't refill. The water is running but it seems to run straight out again. What is causing this?

However, when the flush button isn't screwed in place, all the mechanisms seem to be working fine (pushing down on the flush plate with a pencil – but we don't want to do that forever).

We are baffled as to why screwing in the flush button is messing up the whole system. Any ideas? We're a bit stuck and don't know what to do next. Thanks.
 
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"But the cistern now won't refill. The water is running but it seems to run straight out again. What is causing this?"
flush valve is not closing properly
water is running straight down the pan :oops:
 
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ON SOME FLUSH VALVES....
You can adjust the height of the valve (Usually 2 "ladder" type adjustment can be seen), on others you cut the length of the rods to suit, Sounds like when it is screwed together the rods are pushing the button(s) down therefore the valve is open.
If unsure post a photo of what you have.
https://www.toiletspareparts.com/co...-storm-33a-single-flush-toilet-valve-32335510

https://www.toiletspareparts.com/co...-flush-valve-push-button-e003167-discontinued

These clearly shows the "ladders".
 
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Thanks for your help, chaps.

First off, kevplumb, is the flush valve the same as the (black) flap or seal found at the bottom of the valve cannister? Sorry to be such a newb, but do we have to remove the valve cannister, which I was scared to do, in order to see what might be hindering the flush valve? Or is there another way to do this?

Just pumps, the discontinued Ideal Standard link you posted, is the valve cannister we have. We did adjust the height of the ladders on the side and guessed that the new position was putting too much pressure on the flush plate(?), so lowered it again. Then the plastic screw couldn't reach the hole in the flush plate to secure the flush button!

Both, is it worth me just shortening the rods slightly to relieve this pressure on the valve (gut instinct)? Would that do it?
IMG_0801.jpg


I'm posting a crappy pic (sorry) of the basic set up. You can see the newspaper tucked behind the cistern which is keeping it straight – clever, eh? Or not, as the flipping thing isn't working now... And do excuse the drowned rod languishing at the bottom of the sea.
 
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Thinking the whole valve looks slightly to tall for the cistern unless it is just the angle of the photo or the lid allows it to be that high?
Bring the ladders higher again until A) the cistern lid fits and B) the screw engages with the plate without causing water to enter the pan then try the longer rod and button. If still no joy push the ladders down one notch at a time and yes I`ve seen the rods shortened before and even replaced with screws to give "adjustment" (lol) but you shouldn`t need to do either.
 
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sound advice
just a thought if you have been dropping bits in the cistern
might be an idea to check there is no debris holding the flap open;)
 
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Thanks for your help, chaps.

First off, kevplumb, is the flush valve the same as the (black) flap or seal found at the bottom of the valve cannister? Sorry to be such a newb, but do we have to remove the valve cannister, which I was scared to do, in order to see what might be hindering the flush valve? Or is there another way to do this?
To remove the whole valve, grip it low down and twist slightly this will disconnect 2 lugs at the bottom and the whole valve then lifts out. Clean the rubber seal on the valve and the seat left behind and refit. If the rubber on the valve has bubbles then it will never seal but replacement rubber can be purchased.
 
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Cheers, chaps. I agree that the valve looks too tall for the cistern but this is the only height at which the plastic screw will screw in.
I think the way to go is to try and shorten the rods slightly - luckily, we've still got the leftover pieces if that goes wrong, so we can recut those. But I will *nervously* check the seal/seat and make sure everything is nice.
Will let you know how we get on. Thank you!
 
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Thinking it is clockwise to remove but take a look first as the plastic lugs can become brittle. :mad:
 
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Done it! Thanks everyone. We had to cut the rods, which now fit much better in the button housing. But the real trick was to loosen the plastic screw which released the pressure on the flush plate. So now it's all good. Have a great day! I intend to now.
 
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Done it! Thanks everyone. We had to cut the rods, which now fit much better in the button housing. But the real trick was to loosen the plastic screw which released the pressure on the flush plate. So now it's all good. Have a great day! I intend to now.
Part B in post 5 then ;)
 
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