eco TEC plus 418 fault 22

[whoareyougg]

I have a Valiant eco TEC plus 418 which is 20 months old, it has occasionally not started up and requires a reset usually more in cold weather (I think but this may be a red herring) now it will not start at all with a reset. When I reset the system thge pilot light comes the system starts briefly and noisey but then stops within seconds. fault 22 is the most common fault to appear but the log also shows a F24 and a F72. any ideas ? I have a wife who is getting cold.
I did not register with Valiant for a free 2nd year warranty DERR!!

 

[Agile]

You would have had to have the boiler serviced to qualify for the second year of the warrantee.

Anyway its not a boiler fault but a lack of system flow.

Was the system power flushed before fitting the boiler?

What cleanser and inhibitor were used?

Tony

 

[mickyg]

its not the boiler its the system. No circulation. Probably the pump or dry header tank or low pressure(if sealed system). Check the FAQ for checking the pump.

 

[whoareyougg]

thanks
do not think the system was power flushed just drained, unsure of What cleanser and inhibitor were used. I have checked the header which has water in it but that dues not prove water in system. will chech FAQ to see if it is pump ?

 

[whoareyougg]

would best thing be to be 1st drain down system rather than power flush as I am led to believe that this sometimes finds weakness in joints etc. so drain system to dry to get as much muck from syestem as possible and then check pump ( it has a large screwhead on front about inch or so and then check inside for free movement) then if shagged replace, I hear giving it a whack sometimes works, I have tried hitting before though not worked. If I undo pump as it is I would expect water to pour out or should I turn water off 1st ? Then filling system up with a cleanser and inhibitor.

 

[Agile]

thanks
do not think the system was power flushed just drained, unsure of What cleanser and inhibitor were used. I have checked the header which has water in it but that dues not prove water in system. will chech FAQ to see if it is pump ?

Clearly it was not installed by a professional !

If it was just drained then the chances are that it was just refilled and no chemicals were used. They cost money and no dodgy installer is going to waste their money on chemicals.

Presumable you chose them because they were cheap? And further reduced your costs by not having it serviced after the first year which would have validated the second year of warrantee ( although this problem is not covered ).

There is either no water or the pump impeller has become blocked.

Tony

 

[whoareyougg]

CHEERS. System was installed before I moved in and should have been my responsibility to ensure I was covered but !!!!!!
would best thing be to be 1st drain down system rather than power flush as I am led to believe that this sometimes finds weakness in joints etc. so drain system to dry to get as much muck from syestem as possible and then check pump ( it has a large screwhead on front about inch or so and then check inside for free movement) then if s*****d replace, I hear giving it a whack sometimes works, I have tried hitting before though not worked. If I undo pump as it is I would expect water to pour out or should I turn water off 1st ? Then filling system up with a cleanser and inhibitor

 

[Agile]

You first need to take a sample of water to see the colour.

You should be able to isolate the pump from its valves and then just remove the head to inspect the impeller. But see the FAQ.

Tony

 

[whoareyougg]

I drained system fine and water was running clear . Checked pump and it seemed ok and impelloer was free, only a drip of water came out though. Refilled system with cleanser. gave the pump another whack and it all seemed to kick into life.. hooray. but later in evening stopped again. Bled all rads with system off and some bleed valves in airing cupboard. Switched back on and all well for 15 minutes, heating great and hotwater but then the radiator symbol on the display starts flashing ignition goes light out and S7 pump overun displayed.
Pump is a Grundfos 15-50 which is at least 12 years old. Does seem the whack on pump last night worked ???? Does the S7 also point to REPLACE PUMP ?

 

[Agile]

Checked pump and it seemed ok and impelloer was free,

This seems like hard work!

Did you remove the pump head and INSPECT the impeller?

What colour was it?

Tony

 

[simond]

The Vaillant 4 series is a UK design based on Glowworm products. It has a reputation in the installation trade for being rather picky about the water flow rate through the boiler.

First thing to check is what sort of motorised valve you have; if it is a 3port (ie: 3 pipes connected) then no auto bypass is normally required unless there are TRVs on every radiator. If there are TRVs throughout, remove one of the heads on a larger rad.

If it is 2x2 port configuration then a bypass must be fitted.

Finally, if this doesn't work, change the pump out for a new'un.

 

[PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN]

12 years old pump, I would change it and stop faffing.

 

[whoareyougg]

thanks all. It is a 3 port valve that was replaced 1 yr ago.
I did also try pumping mains water from header tank when pump was in and again it back filled into header with only a small ammount of water coming out a lower rad drain..
I removed the pump as I got a replacement ready to use just incase. I have not refitted as yet. Pipes are clear from header to where pump was. I thought I should be able to pump mains water down the pipe leading away from where the pump exit was ( SHOULD I ????) with the lower radiatior drain plug undone, but all that happened was water back filled and started comimg out of the pipe above the pump entry so if that points to a blockage somewhere, how on earth does one find it.

enjoy your

 

[mickyg]

when you drain the system does the header tank empty?
When you replace the pump check the header tank to see if any water comes up the vent.

 

[whoareyougg]

header emties no problem . i will be replacing pump tonight