No but i still have it.
Did you buy from radiators direct?
How long did they last?
Did you buy from radiators direct?
How long did they last?
Ecostrad ceramic rad not working
- Thread starter trevorbayliss
- Start date
bought from Go Home Direct Trading. I've thrown one away. Seems such a waste! Need to buy another too. We had them for three years but in a holiday let thats not high usage at all. Bought three at the same time. two failed within weeks of each other. Praying the third doesnt go ....l
I see. Mine was a holiday let but after the first season I switched it to normal rental. Holiday let’s we’re just not worth the extra work.
I won’t be using this type of electric heater again though. This lasted 10mths. The other 2 are still ok. I’m preparing to have to replace them every few yrs or so. Switching to gas is a big job so o I won’t be doing that
I won’t be using this type of electric heater again though. This lasted 10mths. The other 2 are still ok. I’m preparing to have to replace them every few yrs or so. Switching to gas is a big job so o I won’t be doing that
I’ve checked your supplier and it’s the same group as radiators direct. Their head office is in knaresborough, north Yorks.
I would suggest the latter. The level of advertising needed to sell them, confirms that they are a dodgy item, requiring a hard sell.
My story: got 4 Ecostrad iQ Plus heaters, wifi & cloud controlled. Two failed - the wifi/cloud control part - after about a month of use.
Got one replaced, now going to ask for the second one as well.
Chose them because the switching is with triacs (no switching noise) and not with relays, but mostly for the remote control.
Ecostrad is to avoided.
Interested if anyone took them apart. I need to return the defective units, otherwise I would check the electronics and see if anything could be replaced.
Got one replaced, now going to ask for the second one as well.
Chose them because the switching is with triacs (no switching noise) and not with relays, but mostly for the remote control.
Ecostrad is to avoided.
Interested if anyone took them apart. I need to return the defective units, otherwise I would check the electronics and see if anything could be replaced.
All you could repair there, is the over-heat stat., the silver, cicular object on the right, or perhaps the wiring. The PCB/display/control, will be a custom part. only available to the OEM.
Hi Ecostrad sufferers.
I told my Ecostrad horror story in a previous post on 1 Dec 2025.
I am quite eager to take a look at the electronics, with a view of identifying what causes the failure and replacing the controls with some sturdier ESP32 board for example.
If any of you, e.g. @trevorbayliss still have the failed units, could we discuss about a teardown of one of them?
I live in London, can pay the postage for sending the electronic board. Who knows, something may come out of this.
Please let me know, can provide my email for direct messaging. Thanks.
PS Spot on comments from the others on this thread.
I told my Ecostrad horror story in a previous post on 1 Dec 2025.
I am quite eager to take a look at the electronics, with a view of identifying what causes the failure and replacing the controls with some sturdier ESP32 board for example.
If any of you, e.g. @trevorbayliss still have the failed units, could we discuss about a teardown of one of them?
I live in London, can pay the postage for sending the electronic board. Who knows, something may come out of this.
Please let me know, can provide my email for direct messaging. Thanks.
PS Spot on comments from the others on this thread.
Terms & Conditions of Sale - Ecostrad
Read Ecostrad’s full terms and conditions of sale here.
ecostrad.com
The penny dropped when reading the above conditions of sale!
Ecostrad actually is a law firm that also manufactures radiators as a side business. Radiators seem to be secondary.
The worse the product, the larger the umbrella the company needs to protect itself when things do, eventually, go wrong.
I binned mine at the tip. Got a free one though. Replacements in the future will not be internet ones
Here is a small comment relating to faults in heating devices:-
Such devices (usually) have an overheating "thermal cutout".
This is usually a bi-metal strip device, which resets itself when the temperature drops.
However - in addition - they usually have a "Thermal Fuse", which melts when/if a certain higher temperatures is reached
and then must be replaced.
These "Thermal Fuses" are usually placed where the heat is likely to be greatest and may be difficult to find.
The usual symptom is to have what appears to be two ends of the same conductor and a continuity test indicates that the "conductor" is open-circuit.
In fact, the (hidden) Thermal Fuse in the middle of this "conductor" has melted and needs to be replaced.
These devices are relatively cheap (less than £1.50 retail each - and this would buy 10 from AliExpress)
but
have various "Fusing Temperatures" - so the correctly rated unit must be obtained.
This "Fusing Temperature" is marked on the side of the unit.
However, these markings may not be readable, as a result of heating damage.
For a Fan Heater, a rating of about 130 C would be typical.
In a Steam Iron Sole-Plate - 240 C.
Of course, they cannot be replaced by soldering the connections.
They must be replaced either by welding
or
by the use of "Crimping Devices".
Such devices (usually) have an overheating "thermal cutout".
This is usually a bi-metal strip device, which resets itself when the temperature drops.
However - in addition - they usually have a "Thermal Fuse", which melts when/if a certain higher temperatures is reached
and then must be replaced.
These "Thermal Fuses" are usually placed where the heat is likely to be greatest and may be difficult to find.
The usual symptom is to have what appears to be two ends of the same conductor and a continuity test indicates that the "conductor" is open-circuit.
In fact, the (hidden) Thermal Fuse in the middle of this "conductor" has melted and needs to be replaced.
These devices are relatively cheap (less than £1.50 retail each - and this would buy 10 from AliExpress)
but
have various "Fusing Temperatures" - so the correctly rated unit must be obtained.
This "Fusing Temperature" is marked on the side of the unit.
However, these markings may not be readable, as a result of heating damage.
For a Fan Heater, a rating of about 130 C would be typical.
In a Steam Iron Sole-Plate - 240 C.
Of course, they cannot be replaced by soldering the connections.
They must be replaced either by welding
or
by the use of "Crimping Devices".
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