Electric oven and mains powered gas ignitor...

[Coupe_20v]

Hi folks

I'm just about to start replacing my kitchen and have bought the various appliances ready for fitting.

I've got a 2.89kw fan oven and a gas hob with a 0.6w mains powered ignitor.

Can i run the two items off the same main cooker isolation switch? In other words, the oven cable will run from the isolator to the connector plate, and the hob ignitor cable will run from the isolator to a 3A FCU (as recommended by the manufacturer) and then to the hob itself.

Hope that makes sense

Cheers all

 

[andy]

best to either use a plug on the hob and plug it in to the ring main, or put the FCU on the ring main

 

[securespark]

Put a double socket on the end of the cable from the isolator and plug both into that.

 

[felix]

A little alarm just went off somewhere ---

You said "main cooker isolation switch". Would that be a big, fat switch on the end of a big, fat piece cable going back to a big, fat 30/32 amp fuse/breaker in the box? Some are even bigger. Does your new fan assisted oven have a length of 13 amp flex coming out the back?

Houston, we have a problem! If the oven is meant to have a 13 amp plug put on the end of its flex you can't just hitch it up to a cooker switch on a 30 amp fuse. If you don't want to put a plug on it you need a 13 amp FCU between the oven flex and the cooker switch.

Personally I would go for the plug in an un-switched socket. It makes life so much easier when some oaf tips a pan of lentil soup down the back of the cooker and you have to pull it out and clean up the mess!

 

[Coupe_20v]

Cheers for the replies so far

To re-cap...

The new oven is to be fitted in to a unit, not freestanding.
The new oven does have flex and appears to run off a 13A outlet (plug or fcu)... just need to confirm in the instructions. if this is the case, I'm assuming I can do the following...

From the "big fat switch" run 2.5mm cable to 2x FCU's (one for the cooker and one for the gas hob ignitor)??

I take it power for my shiney new chimney hood should come from the normal socket ring main via an FCU (rather than a third FCU on the cooker ring??)

Sorry to sound so dim, but I want it to be right with the minimum of fuss!

Cheers all

 

[andy]

Cheers for the replies so far

To re-cap...

The new oven is to be fitted in to a unit, not freestanding.
The new oven does have flex and appears to run off a 13A outlet (plug or fcu)... just need to confirm in the instructions. if this is the case, I'm assuming I can do the following...

From the "big fat switch" run 2.5mm cable to 2x FCU's (one for the cooker and one for the gas hob ignitor)??

use whatever size the current circuit is wired in, unless you reduce the protected at the CU to 20A. altho id imagine it would be hard to terminate 2 6mm T+E in a single FCU...

I take it power for my shiney new chimney hood should come from the normal socket ring main via an FCU (rather than a third FCU on the cooker ring??)

correct

Sorry to sound so dim, but I want it to be right with the minimum of fuss!

Cheers all

best ask before rather than after

 

[plugwash]

running two 2.5mm runs to FCUs from a dedicated 32A cuircuit is not a problem. The fuses in the FCUs will give overload protection and short cuircuit protection is unlikely to be an issue either (a spur off a large ring is far worse from a short cuircuit point of view and people do that all the time without making sure of everything).

 

[Coupe_20v]

Excellent..

Could I get away with running both the oven and the ignitor off the same FCU? I know that it will be ok so far as the electrics are concerned (current, etc) but how about the general rule of running more than one item from a single FCU?

Just trying to keep things as tidy as possible

Cheers for you time folks

 

[plugwash]

its better not to because there should be correct fuse protection for the different sized loads.

you could fit a grid plate with a pair of fuse carriers instead of using FCUs

 

[Coupe_20v]

Gridplate... now you've lost me!

Basically I'm looking for the neatest installation I can get away with... I hate the look of all the cooker isolation switches and would rather have it out of site, if possible.

2x FCU's are acceptable though... can I therefore have these on show and the main isolator in a cupboard?

 

[plugwash]

if the FCUs are switched an accessible then there is no need for a main isolator. In this situation if you wan't to keep it (say because it makes joining the cables up easier) there is no problem with having it in a cupboard.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It falls to me again.

Not to be construed as telling you not to do any of the work, or a refusal to advise you on safety and best practices:

Are you aware of Part P of the Building Regulations which makes the provision of new circuits notifiable work?

http://www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si2004/20043210.htm

 

[Coupe_20v]

I am aware of the requirements of Part P and I've been studying it pretty carefully... no problem getting a certified sparky in if that's what it takes

Thanks, especially to Plugwash, for you replies

At least now I know exactly what I want and what I need.

Cheers

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I am aware of the requirements of Part P and I've been studying it pretty carefully... no problem getting a certified sparky in if that's what it takes

That's entirely up to you.