Do you know whether he is actually qualified and registered with anybody?
Electrician has left holes in interior brickwork
- Thread starter GeorgeP
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He is listed on the NIC EIC website. He is the only tradesman actually on the books of the conversion company we used. All other tradesmen have been paid separately. He has been to the house whilst the guy he has employed to do the work has been there and it may be that he doesn't actually realize how bad the job is but that's no excuse for not supervising people when it's your business and on your head if things are not right. It will be interesting to see NIC's response and I just hope the technology has worked because I really want to press on with this ASAP.
Are you saying that the loft company is listed or the electrician that has done the work?
The electrician whose business it is. The loft company is not listed but they do have good testimonials and I would hazard a guess that the construction of the loft is fine although there have been some right teething problems. Although I hear that builders, even reputable ones have wandering workmen or pull them off jobs onto others. They have left the place very untidy at times but that's not a crime so long as their work is okay. It has crossed my mind to draw a line under everything and get a council inspector in and start over again - depending on what NIC say, because if the electrics are bad then perhaps everything needs looking at. Not sure..... main thing is - ceilings can fall down, plaster can come off but that wouldn't kill or maim....
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Ceilings falling down could kill a child...
Yes, but I think the ceilings will be okay in our house because I am not getting that company to be in charge of the plastering! I saw the various stages of the loft conversion and the floor was reinforced everywhere. The joists were reinforced everywhere with really thick timbers. They put kingspan insulation between under the floorboards and double insulation on the roof. It's been quite Jekyll and Hyde where areas appear to have been done to good standards and then (like the floorboards in my other post) other jobs have been sub standard. You seem quite curious - have you underlying concerns?
Some of the things you have picked are superficial - a loose brick, split boards, rough plastering. The wiring was spotted by accident when you posted a question about the loose brick, are you sure that you know enough to spot work that isn't up to standard?
Since the private BC seems to be in the pocket of the contractor, it might be worth getting a structural engineer to give it a once over before you pay them off. Maybe whoever drafted the plans and tender specs could check it over for you. You have a much greater chance of getting things fixed before you pay them.
Is your electrical work being done 'on the cheap' or something?
It seems to lack any real thought. Covering the cables with capping or conduit would have been a bit more professional, though by no means a requirement.
It seems to lack any real thought. Covering the cables with capping or conduit would have been a bit more professional, though by no means a requirement.
I asked about conduit from the beginning. I rang the private inspector who told me that there is an argument in the industry as to for and against and to not worry about it because it is acceptable not to use conduit in this case. However, I currently live in a well strong stone house and the electrician, although he may not have buried the wires as deep as he could have in places, put all of them in conduit. That's why I asked from the beginning. The quote I was given was the in the same area as quotes from three other companies so that didn't sound any alarm bells. I got the guy that did my current house in to quote but he never got back to me.
Once all that wiring is moved to correct cable zones (think most of it can easily be adapted) I would recommend conduit. No requirement, but it costs pennies, and can come in handy for replacing cables (believe me alterations are sometimes required, for whatever reason).
For example, a cable gets drilled through, and you need to replace it with minimal disruption. Another example - you want to add 2 way switching, with minimal disruption. Another example - you want to move a wall light cable higher up the wall, with minimal disruption.
For example, a cable gets drilled through, and you need to replace it with minimal disruption. Another example - you want to add 2 way switching, with minimal disruption. Another example - you want to move a wall light cable higher up the wall, with minimal disruption.
Does using conduit mean someone would have to go in to the brick work so that when it's plastered it gets a smooth finish? Also, I was really surprised that even though they haven't used conduit in most internal walls, that they would have at least used it in the kitchen and utility room and for outside lighting (linked to utility).
I would say the issue with conduit on this job would be the depth required - it would mean chasing the brick work to give an adequate depth for the oval conduit. These bricks are so hard that chasing can be an issue (so much so, the current spark has loosened a few bricks while doing so).
Capping could be used, but is it worth it this late in the game?
Looking at the build, the plaster seems very loose and has fallen away in chunks.
If it had been me, and my home, I would probably have had the plaster removed completely, and then re-wired, fittings the metal boxes directly to the wall, clipping the cable flush (as they are), and then had the whole place dry lined (dot and dabbed plasterboard), with the dry liner guys bringing the plasterboard out flush to the metal boxes (usually have to chip the boxes back a smidge, but you can encourage the dry lining chaps to use bigger dabs).
The whole place could then be re-plastered far more easily, and with far better results.
Capping could be used, but is it worth it this late in the game?
Looking at the build, the plaster seems very loose and has fallen away in chunks.
If it had been me, and my home, I would probably have had the plaster removed completely, and then re-wired, fittings the metal boxes directly to the wall, clipping the cable flush (as they are), and then had the whole place dry lined (dot and dabbed plasterboard), with the dry liner guys bringing the plasterboard out flush to the metal boxes (usually have to chip the boxes back a smidge, but you can encourage the dry lining chaps to use bigger dabs).
The whole place could then be re-plastered far more easily, and with far better results.
It was the look on a builder's face that made me post that heading. It was no accident that I posted lots of photos. I know that look - my dad has that look .... it's not good news. Both are obvious old school. Thank you for the advice about a structural engineer - I will do that.
Taking the plaster off and replastering is the best way, but obviously could get very expensive.
The dot and dab plasterboard then skim method is a cheaper way of doing this, but would mean door linings would probably have to be replaced for wider ones, etc.
Certainly don't want to push you into extra work not allowed for, though dodgy old blown plaster can be a nightmare...
The dot and dab plasterboard then skim method is a cheaper way of doing this, but would mean door linings would probably have to be replaced for wider ones, etc.
Certainly don't want to push you into extra work not allowed for, though dodgy old blown plaster can be a nightmare...
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