Could you say that again in English please.
Enamel for alloy wheel?
- Thread starter DiyNutJob
- Start date
A couple of low force techniques have been developed to allow dismounting of the tyre without damaging the paint.
For the front bead, we start with the left pry bar levering the bead up. When space is opened up on the right, the hook end of the right pry bar is inserted. The right pry bar then levers up to make space to the right of it. The left pry bar is withdrawn and inserted into the new space, and so on. If carefully done, the pry bars don't need to touch the rim at all. The plank could be wrapped in cloth/towel to protect the rim. The plank is reoriented as progress is made.
For the back bead, a simple wedge follows the pry bar, in this case a screwdriver. As soon as space is pried open, the wedge advances towards the pry bar. The wedge keeps space open in front of the pry bar allowing it to advance. Very rapid progress can be made in tiny increments. The force needed is small and a double layer of ikea silicone drawer liner is good enough to protect the rim from the pry bar. The padding advances with the pry bar.
The steps to arrive at the photo'ed states are typical and don't need to be described. China rim protectors were used to fold the beads over. These were carp and crushed by the force. They claimed these were made from PU, but I am unconvinced, or they used the weakest PU. I think printed TPU would be stronger. I will try printed protectors. The china ones are useful as a template, and their fitment is perfect. Strong protectors are only needed during the initial folding over of the beads.
For the front bead, we start with the left pry bar levering the bead up. When space is opened up on the right, the hook end of the right pry bar is inserted. The right pry bar then levers up to make space to the right of it. The left pry bar is withdrawn and inserted into the new space, and so on. If carefully done, the pry bars don't need to touch the rim at all. The plank could be wrapped in cloth/towel to protect the rim. The plank is reoriented as progress is made.
For the back bead, a simple wedge follows the pry bar, in this case a screwdriver. As soon as space is pried open, the wedge advances towards the pry bar. The wedge keeps space open in front of the pry bar allowing it to advance. Very rapid progress can be made in tiny increments. The force needed is small and a double layer of ikea silicone drawer liner is good enough to protect the rim from the pry bar. The padding advances with the pry bar.
The steps to arrive at the photo'ed states are typical and don't need to be described. China rim protectors were used to fold the beads over. These were carp and crushed by the force. They claimed these were made from PU, but I am unconvinced, or they used the weakest PU. I think printed TPU would be stronger. I will try printed protectors. The china ones are useful as a template, and their fitment is perfect. Strong protectors are only needed during the initial folding over of the beads.
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If I send you a bag of walnuts for Christmas, can you use your 14lb hammer to crack them for me…
I suggest put nut against wall and bang with head. It will crack every time given the available density. Do you need a translation from physics to english?
You don't have experience of dealing with the tyre by hand. I don't understand why you bother with this thread. The junk you picked up from youtube are for steel truck wheels and not suitable for the fragile alloys.
Would you balance and fix rim leak on my wheels for me?
I'm never gonna use a tyre garage again!
I'm never gonna use a tyre garage again!
