Could you say that again in English please.
Enamel for alloy wheel?
- Thread starter DiyNutJob
- Start date
A couple of low force techniques have been developed to allow dismounting of the tyre without damaging the paint.
For the front bead, we start with the left pry bar levering the bead up. When space is opened up on the right, the hook end of the right pry bar is inserted. The right pry bar then levers up to make space to the right of it. The left pry bar is withdrawn and inserted into the new space, and so on. If carefully done, the pry bars don't need to touch the rim at all. The plank could be wrapped in cloth/towel to protect the rim. The plank is reoriented as progress is made.
For the back bead, a simple wedge follows the pry bar, in this case a screwdriver. As soon as space is pried open, the wedge advances towards the pry bar. The wedge keeps space open in front of the pry bar allowing it to advance. Very rapid progress can be made in tiny increments. The force needed is small and a double layer of ikea silicone drawer liner is good enough to protect the rim from the pry bar. The padding advances with the pry bar.
The steps to arrive at the photo'ed states are typical and don't need to be described. China rim protectors were used to fold the beads over. These were carp and crushed by the force. They claimed these were made from PU, but I am unconvinced, or they used the weakest PU. I think printed TPU would be stronger. I will try printed protectors. The china ones are useful as a template, and their fitment is perfect. Strong protectors are only needed during the initial folding over of the beads.
For the front bead, we start with the left pry bar levering the bead up. When space is opened up on the right, the hook end of the right pry bar is inserted. The right pry bar then levers up to make space to the right of it. The left pry bar is withdrawn and inserted into the new space, and so on. If carefully done, the pry bars don't need to touch the rim at all. The plank could be wrapped in cloth/towel to protect the rim. The plank is reoriented as progress is made.
For the back bead, a simple wedge follows the pry bar, in this case a screwdriver. As soon as space is pried open, the wedge advances towards the pry bar. The wedge keeps space open in front of the pry bar allowing it to advance. Very rapid progress can be made in tiny increments. The force needed is small and a double layer of ikea silicone drawer liner is good enough to protect the rim from the pry bar. The padding advances with the pry bar.
The steps to arrive at the photo'ed states are typical and don't need to be described. China rim protectors were used to fold the beads over. These were carp and crushed by the force. They claimed these were made from PU, but I am unconvinced, or they used the weakest PU. I think printed TPU would be stronger. I will try printed protectors. The china ones are useful as a template, and their fitment is perfect. Strong protectors are only needed during the initial folding over of the beads.
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If I send you a bag of walnuts for Christmas, can you use your 14lb hammer to crack them for me…
I suggest put nut against wall and bang with head. It will crack every time given the available density. Do you need a translation from physics to english?
You don't have experience of dealing with the tyre by hand. I don't understand why you bother with this thread. The junk you picked up from youtube are for steel truck wheels and not suitable for the fragile alloys.
Would you balance and fix rim leak on my wheels for me?
I'm never gonna use a tyre garage again!
I'm never gonna use a tyre garage again!
Remounting the tyre was easier having gained experience once before. The earlier mentioned low force wedge and pry bar technique worked for 70% of the front bead. Then full force conventional prying had to be used to complete the job. A ratchet strap was perfect for locking down the bead to prevent it "walking". It also helped to preposition the bead in the wheel "trench" level.
I believe it is now within my ability to mount tyres without damaging the rim if an appropriate rim protector is found/made. This guy could do it and I like his stomping technique to get the first bead on the wheel. I fell over while pushing it on.
I believe it is now within my ability to mount tyres without damaging the rim if an appropriate rim protector is found/made. This guy could do it and I like his stomping technique to get the first bead on the wheel. I fell over while pushing it on.
Currently I don't have balancing ability. I believe shops can do just the balancing for you.
I can't fix it for you, but I am showing you the way. I will fix my own leak around the rim shortly on my regular wheel.
Thanks!
You're on to something here...
That's impossible. The power needed to lift that bar to the vertical position would break the bar, tyre, or wheel. The reason the bar was pre-placed is because inserting it later would mess up the wheel finish.
After identifying and marking the front leak on the reg2 wheel, I decided to bust the myth on soapy water. An extra bubble popping up every few minutes would be impossible to distinguish from the others. For slow leaks, use bubble free plain water or go home.
I struggled half a day without success trying to break the bead. Turned out my copycatting youtube videos in spraying soapy water was the culprit. The bead breaker couldn't get a grip. To succeed, the tyre must be kept as dry as possible. Another requirement is that there must be aggression in crushing that bish. For this wheel, more than half of the tyre width had to be crushed. The tyre rubber being new meant the rubber was suction stuck to the bead seat. The bead breaker must be used all around the wheel.
I struggled half a day without success trying to break the bead. Turned out my copycatting youtube videos in spraying soapy water was the culprit. The bead breaker couldn't get a grip. To succeed, the tyre must be kept as dry as possible. Another requirement is that there must be aggression in crushing that bish. For this wheel, more than half of the tyre width had to be crushed. The tyre rubber being new meant the rubber was suction stuck to the bead seat. The bead breaker must be used all around the wheel.
