Extending Socket wiring

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Hi, been getting round to replacing all sockets and run into a problem. On one socket all the wires are too short they have been very snugly pushed in and all the ends were weak so snipped them off now they too short for new socket. What's the best way to extend these wires now the earth is ok just the n and L can I just use wago connectors for them? And if I can which ones should I go for as space is very tight.
Any help please
Thanks
 
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Just use the old fashioned connector blocks - separate one each for L and N - much smaller than Wagos.
 
Oh dear, this will cause an argument.


Just use the smallest you can get all three wires in.

Put all three wires in for the whole length of the connector so they are all gripped and forced together by both screws.
 
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For example:

upload_2022-1-28_19-53-41.png
 
The amperage of connectors is just a guide, use the smallest connector which are usable. Aim to get good overlap, between the conductors - in each, you will have two in from one side, one out, aim to have all three tightened onto by both screws, so the conductors cross over in the connector.
 
Ok thanks so doesnt matter which amp I use then will I need tape them up aswell? Just incase they come loose inside backbox?
 
Ok was just thinking with trying push wires back tight but il leave the tape.
Just to double check I can use any amp block like this one I've attached?
 

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Just use the old fashioned connector blocks - separate one each for L and N - much smaller than Wagos.
Before Wago 221s came along, I would have agreed with you, but I'm not so sure anymore - particularly since one can now get things like ..

upload_2022-1-28_21-33-38.png


Kind Regards, John
 
Before Wago 221s came along, I would have agreed with you, but I'm not so sure anymore - particularly since one can now get things like ..

View attachment 259111

Kind Regards, John

I'm maybe old fashioned and maybe over cautious. I don't think you can beat copper conductors in very close contact with each other and well clamped - so all of the current is passed through copper, for lowest resistance with the purpose of the jointing system just there to maintain that close intimate connection. Besides which, choc blocks are much cheaper/ more available :)
 
I'm maybe old fashioned and maybe over cautious. I don't think you can beat copper conductors in very close contact with each other and well clamped - so all of the current is passed through copper, for lowest resistance with the purpose of the jointing system just there to maintain that close intimate connection.
For what it's worth, I'm equally old-fashioned, and it's far from unusual to see me mentioning slight personal nervousness about spring-based connections.

However, there is no doubt that they are increasing in popularity and those who wish to allay my 'nervousness' remind me that the technology has been around (at least to some extent) for decades, that it compensates for movement/creep in the copper over time (particularly if thermally-cycled) and, perhaps most of relevant of all, that it does not depend on the (always 'uncertain') human element of the tightening of the screw in a screwed connection.

The main 'weakness of 'our' view is presumably that it is totally reliant on "copper conductors [being]in very close contact with each other and well clamped". If it could be shown that alternatives to screwed terminals could more reliably achieve that initially and/or more reliably maintain that situation in the long-term, then a fair bit of our argument could go out of the window.
Besides which, choc blocks are much cheaper/ more available :)
That can't be denied, at least at present.

As for the 'size' issue, as I've said, I'm not so sure about that now that we have 221 series Wagos (and also 'in-line' ones, such as I illustrated). That could become increasingly important if one was faced with the (in my opinion 'silly') arguments about 'current ratings' of connector blocks - if, in a situation such as the OP's, one felt compelled to use a connector block rated at 30/32A, they are quite large!

Kind Regards, John
 
I'm maybe old fashioned and maybe over cautious. I don't think you can beat copper conductors in very close contact with each other and well clamped - so all of the current is passed through copper, for lowest resistance with the purpose of the jointing system just there to maintain that close intimate connection. Besides which, choc blocks are much cheaper/ more available :)
We had quite a long discussion on current rating of choc bloc, the point in question was extending a MI ring final by adding a join in a socket back box, I used 15A as the 30A I/we had was too big, I ran both wires in the same side and clamped with both screws (like EFL pic but without the dark wire). In my view the connector itself wouldn't carry much current and being near the middle of the ring the join shouldn't be passing more than half the total current.
Others views varied.
 
We had quite a long discussion on current rating of choc bloc, the point in question was extending a MI ring final by adding a join in a socket back box, I used 15A as the 30A I/we had was too big, I ran both wires in the same side and clamped with both screws (like EFL pic but without the dark wire). In my view the connector itself wouldn't carry much current and being near the middle of the ring the join shouldn't be passing more than half the total current. Others views varied.
Indeed, and for what it's worth, my personal view is essentially that all that matters about a connector block is that it is big enough to accommodate the conductors concerned. I would nearly always do as you describe, but even if conductors are only put into one side, not extending to the other, the metal of the connector will virtually (quite probably literally) always have a greater CSA than the conductors - so I can't really get excited about the 'current rating' of the connector.

However, as you says, views about this can (and do!) vary!

Kind Regards, John
 

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