Extension lead plug getting warm? advice please?

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I bought a CANDY - GCC591NBB Condenser Tumble Dryer.

I plugged it into a Masterplug 4 Socket Cable Reel 10 amps - 10m extension lead.

Whilst the extension lead plug did not get HOT it did get warm.

Of course I would prefer to plug it into a mains socket but there is not one nearby.

1. Is it safe plugged in to the existing extension lead?

2. Is there a more robust extension lead that someone might recommend ?

Thanks.
 
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I bought a CANDY - GCC591NBB Condenser Tumble Dryer.

I plugged it into a Masterplug 4 Socket Cable Reel 10 amps - 10m extension lead.

Whilst the extension lead plug did not get HOT it did get warm.

Of course I would prefer to plug it into a mains socket but there is not one nearby.

1. Is it safe plugged in to the existing extension lead?

2. Is there a more robust extension lead that someone might recommend ?

Thanks.

Did you have the reel fully unwound? Should run cooler when unwound. Without knowing the power requirements of the dryer, it's hard to say if the reel is OK long term.
 
What is the rating (W or kW) of the TD heater?

10A might be a bit on the limit, however, things do get warm.
Have you unrolled all the lead?
Don't plug anything else in while the TD is on.


Yes there are larger extension leads, just look for 13A or higher.
 
I have attached the Candy Dryer manual, cant seem to find the power requirements? anyone else manage to find them?

Yes reel fully unwound.

Does argos have any 13A or higher reels?
 

Attachments

  • candy dryer.pdf
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All I can see in that is Page 7 -

upload_2017-11-9_13-22-23.png



How long a lead do you need?
 
If the plug is getting hot as you say, then it's either the fuse warming up or a connection in the plug (or socket contact could be weak)
I'd be tempted to replace the fuse, plug, socket, in that order.

However as above, the dryer requires more than the lead is rated for, and it must be fully unwound.
I'd be tempted to make up a lead myself of the correct length with a decent make plug and fuse, and socket end.
Another option is wiring it into an fcu, which would remove a couple of points of failure. But opinions vary.
 
You'd have to take a look on the rating plate on the machine, but I'd guess the socket on the extension reel is not up to the job.
 
You'd have to take a look on the rating plate on the machine, but I'd guess the socket on the extension reel is not up to the job.
Yes, possibly, but, depending on what the OP means by 'warm', it might simply be 'as expected'.

Cables, extension or otherwise, do get quite warm when run close to their 'rated' maximum current. The implication of the tabulated data we work with is that a flexible cable carrying its maximum 'rated' current could have a conductor temperature of 60°C.

Kind Regards, John
 
This is one bullet point in the makers instructions,● Do not use adapters, multiple connectors and/or extensions.
So I could have a socket on the end of 20m of cable from the CU, and that would be OK.

But I could not have one 5m from the CU and a 5m extension lead plugged in.

Please explain why.
 
Does a 10 amp extension lead actually have a 10 amp fuse in the plug?
Dunno - one might hope so, although I don't think it would really make much difference - given that it seemingly takes a minimum of about 22A to blow a 13A BS1362 fuse, one imagines that it would probably take around 17A minimum to blow a 10A one.

Perhaps a more interesting question is whether "10A" extension leads really ought top exist at all.

Kind Regards, John
 
So I could have a socket on the end of 20m of cable from the CU, and that would be OK.

But I could not have one 5m from the CU and a 5m extension lead plugged in.

Please explain why.

Simple. 5 + 5 is 10 so your appliance 20 metres away would not reach.
 
The reason manufacturers tell their customers not to use extension leads is because it's easier to tell people not to do something than to deal with all the complications of doing so safely.

Things you need to think about when using an extension lead.

1. Is the current rating appropriate. Many extension leads are rated at less than the full 13A and tumble driers often do need the full 13A. Technicall 1.25 mm² is sufficient for 13A but I'd rather have a bit more margin and use 1.5mm²
2. Are the ends good quality. For running at the full 13A I would not want to trust cheap unbranded crap.
3. Will it cause unacceptable volt drop. A few meters is probablly fine, tens of meters can start getting very dubious.
4. Is the cable routed in a way that keeps it away from damage, water etc. Personally I would not be happy leaving an extension socket just sitting on a kitchen floor, .
4. Are you doing anything that reduces the rating of the extension lead. In particular leaving a lead coiled up on a reel is BAD. A loose jumble on the floor is better than a reel but if you are forced to use an extension lead on a long-term basis then it is better to avoid having excess length.
5. What is the possibility of someone adding load later. If you are forced to use an extension lead for a large appliance on a long term basis then it's probably best to use one with only a single socket.

Extending the fixed wiring is generally preferable if you are able to do so.
 
As with any non inverter drive refrigeration unit volt drop is critical, the units have a compressor which should not be started under load, there will be times when it is started under load so it has an overload device to switch it off should this happen and give enough time for pressure to drop before it re-tries to start, these overloads are OK for the odd use, but if regularly tripped they will fail, so it is important there is not a volt drop over the permitted 5% and even the 5% could be a problem. The volt drop is important on start, once running not so much of a problem, and on start the compressor draws the maximum current so it must be considered as 13A. In fact it may be over 13A on start, even a fridge/freezer which uses less than ½ amp on run still uses 10A on start.

This is why nearly every refrigeration unit says you should not use an extension lead, one there is a volt drop on the cable and two a volt drop across the fuse so it would be easy to exceed the permitted volt drop, some plugs will take 2.5 mm² cable, but most you can't get over 1.5 mm² to fit, much depends on the volt drop already at the socket and for that matter the house, for years even though the official voltage is 230 volt many homes still had 240 volt, however with the role out of solar panels in order to stop them tripping out on over voltage the suppliers have started lowering the volts to the correct 230 volt, when it happened with my home the kitchen fluorescent lamp failed, was using a 58W tube in a 60W fitting, can't get away with it any more.

The way to test volt drop is to use a loop impedance meter, but that is not something the normal house holder will have, so all you can do is use the thickest cable you can and keep it as short as you can, not having two fuses would help, so getting a socket fitted near the drier will mean 2.5 mm² which will reduce volt drop and only one fuse so answer is to have a local socket fitted.

Yes there is a fire risk with extension leads, but that is not why it says don't use them, it is volt drop why. Any non inverter drive refrigeration unit says do not use extension leads, be it fridge, freezer, air con, or condenser drier all say do not use an extension lead.

Note:- Some fridge/freezers and freezers now use inverter drives, this means they use electronics and turn the supply to three phase and in doing so auto correct volt drop, so the new inverter units do not have the same problem, however manufacturers are proud of their inverter drives and will plaster it all over the appliance as a selling point, so unlikely your drier has an inverter drive.
 

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