Aaah that could be it. There's nothing in the instructions about putting anything in the LS bit. Just to confirm should I put the black with brown sleeve here?
Extra wire
- Thread starter RedQueenie
- Start date
Sponsored Links
The picture seem to indicate you have perm live brown core and switch live black/brown sleeve at the fitting.
Your light fitting does not require a perm live, providing the switch is left in the closed/on position.
You do not need to connect anything to the SL terminal.
I would disconnect the brown wire(make safe) at the switch and light and leave to on off function and terminate black with sleeve at L of light or swap them around so black core is disconnected (made safe) and brown is at L1(switch) and L (light)
Ideally you should test these cables out to identify what they do, before proceeding.
Your light fitting does not require a perm live, providing the switch is left in the closed/on position.
You do not need to connect anything to the SL terminal.
I would disconnect the brown wire(make safe) at the switch and light and leave to on off function and terminate black with sleeve at L of light or swap them around so black core is disconnected (made safe) and brown is at L1(switch) and L (light)
Ideally you should test these cables out to identify what they do, before proceeding.
I'm guessing that the reason we can't get the darn thing to switch off! So let me get this straight. I don't need to put anything in the LS terminal and should just cap the brown wire and then put the black wire with brown sleeve in the L terminal. Is that right?
If my presumption are correct, yes.
or you could use the brown as the connection between L1 (switch) and L (light)
and disconnect the black core.
Sponsored Links
Sorry for being stupid, but If I go with connecting the black with brown sleeve to the switch and light will this mean I can turn the light on and off via the switch in stead of it being permanently on?
Yes, you must remove the brown core from the switch but leave the brown link cable that is linking the coms of all 3 gangs.
As I implied before, if the switch is intended to over-ride the PIR (i.e. switch the light on regardless), then the permanent live (probably the brown) would need to go to the L terminal of the new light and the switched live from the switch (probably the black with brown sleeving) to the 'LS' terminal of the light, wouldn't it? (without changing anything at the switch)
As I understand it, with what you are suggesting the switch would serve no purpose other than providing a means of (single pole) isolation for the light/PIR. The OP would then not be able to switch the light on with that switch, which I think/suspect was the intention.
Kind Regards, John
LS terminal is just a manufacture's connection connecting the PIR.
It requires no additional connection to anything, according to the MI.
The OP needs to remove the perm live connection at the switch or the light will be perm on.
Generally PIRs are now designed to have an override function using the switch on/off procedure, but to help with this further we need more info on the product and how the OP wants to control this light.
It requires no additional connection to anything, according to the MI.
The OP needs to remove the perm live connection at the switch or the light will be perm on.
Generally PIRs are now designed to have an override function using the switch on/off procedure, but to help with this further we need more info on the product and how the OP wants to control this light.
... and will, almost certainly, afford a means of putting the light on regardless of the PIR.
IF the OP wants to be able to switch the light on with the switch (over-riding the PIR), he should leave the connections to the switch alone, connect the permanent live (probably brown) to the 'L' of the light and the switched (by switch) live (probably the over-sleeved black) to the 'LS' terminal of the light.
If he doesn't want to be able to use the switch to switch on the light (simply retaining it as a means of SP isolation), then he can do as you suggest - it depends upon what functionality he wants.
Kind Regards, John
The fitting needs a 'permanent live' (unless isolated) connection for it to work. The light will not be permanently on unless a permanent live is connected to the LS terminal of the light.
Many do have that functionality and, if so, that could be used to turn the light on manually. However, not all PIRs do have that functionality, and, in any event, some people prefer to have a 'simple switch' to turn it on manually - as I said before, it depends upon what functionality teh OP wants.
Kind Regards, John
That's fair enough!
If the OP wants to have an override facility, if this is not offered by the product.
If the OP wants to have an override facility, if this is not offered by the product.
Indeed - but, as I said, some people prefer to have a 'simple switch over-ride', rather than having to fiddle with the "off/on" game, even when it is available! One problem is that if the light is not visible from the switch position, one does not know whether one's "off/on" has worked!
My main thought is that since it appears that the previous fitting had a 'switched (by switch) L, as well as permanent L, supplying it, this is probably the functionality that the OP previously had, and therefore what he may also want with the new fitting.
Kind Regards, John
I'm getting really confused now. All I want is to be able to turn the light on and off at the switch. I'm unable to get outside to try either way at the mo.
If you want to be able to turn the light on with the switch (over-riding the PIR), then leave the connections at the switch alone, connect the brown to the new light's 'L' terminal' and connect the black (with brown sleeve) to the new light's 'LS' terminal, and that ought to work. Simples.
Kind Regards, John
- Joined
- 11 Jan 2004
- Messages
- 42,737
- Reaction score
- 2,633
- Country
This then ought to give you:
With the override switch open: floodlight operating via PIR.
With the override switch closed: floodlight permanently on until switch opened.
With the override switch open: floodlight operating via PIR.
With the override switch closed: floodlight permanently on until switch opened.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
