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Failing putty (new shed window) (Ed.)
- Thread starter DIY67
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No paint can work on wetted/moulded substrate. If wet, paint will fail. If drying from wet, paint will fail. If mould growing on the paint or under the paint, it will fail. Mould growing under glass indicates ineffective putty seal. I presume you are using putty because the trade advises it. Trade is for profit and frequent maintenance produces profit. Therefore you must be doubly careful with that. The most effective general purpose sealant you can get is the hybrid polymer. It will work on most things except some plastics. The rot is caused by water getting to the wood. The water is entering at the corner between the rotted piece and the surface it is attached to. The attempt to seal that corner with paint has failed. A bead of sealant will work. All corners at risk of paint cracking from thermal expansion and contraction should be sealed.
Oh no, just when you thought the OP's situation couldn't get any worse, it's nutjob to the rescue!
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Do we know what happened next with this?
Having thoroughly reviewed the thread, I do wonder if a temporary but effective repair - until a structural engineer has properly advised - might be to dress the windows with some code 4 (certainly no lighter) lead flashing. I'm assuming the OP has basic lead welding skills and equipment to do so.
I think at this stage we have to accept that simple solutions, like using putty the normal way, are long behind us.
Having thoroughly reviewed the thread, I do wonder if a temporary but effective repair - until a structural engineer has properly advised - might be to dress the windows with some code 4 (certainly no lighter) lead flashing. I'm assuming the OP has basic lead welding skills and equipment to do so.
I think at this stage we have to accept that simple solutions, like using putty the normal way, are long behind us.
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I'm not suggesting taking the putty out; I am suggesting temporarily dressing lead work over it to provide a seal until such time as a proper structural assessment of the situation can be made.
You have my sympathy, though. As a mixture of chalk dust and linseed oil, putty is notoriously difficult to make and an art that has now largely been lost to today's youth. I can well believe you had a bad batch.
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I was thinking this too, a structural engineer indeed lol.
Having read the entire thread through and not commented until this point personally I'd use a multitool to careful removing , existing putty , hopefully not breaking any glass. Then remove glass and clean all putty out ... then completely ditch the putty idea. Use a butyl flexistrip ( from Hodgsons sealants , reddiseals sell it ) as a backing ' putty, press the glass firmly on and fix with sprigs. Then a low modulus clear silicone around all edges of the glass and apply TREATED and pre stained/painted wooden beads, using sheridised pins. Then once fitted firmly, go around the edge of the glass, where it meets the beads and apply another line of clear silicone to ' cap ' the joint, on the inside of the shed and the outside. I'd also make sure you do that too bead regardless of what Tiger sheds say. I have uses this method many times on wooden sheds and all you should need to do is reapply the ' capping 'sealant as and when it starts to deteriote with thermal movement of the different materials ( wood shrinking and expanding mainly ). Even if you get that putty on and it stays dry , after a few years it WILL crack and you'll be revisiting it anyway. Wooden Windows ( including sheds ) need constant maintenance and if you forego that maintenance it will come back and bite you on the arse
What “bubbling” ?
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If you are that annoyed by putty bubbling ... ditch the putty , use wooden beads
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