Filling loop on halstead boiler

[Jupiter01]

I currently have to use the nut here with a pair of adjustables to top up pressure on this boiler. How can I have the thumb turn valves for top instead please?

The nut is starting to round and is difficult to close at the right time - leading to over pressure

 

[Gasguru]

You'd be better off capping that loop and having a seperate quality filling loop installed on the pipework below. Halstead boilers went bust years ago but AFAIR some spares are available.

 

[Jupiter01]

Which pipes do I install this on?
Is it a generic filling loop or a halstead specific one?

 

[Gasguru]

Just replicate the connections you have at the moment.
For compliance the new loop must have 2 isolating valves...with the double check valve fitted on the cold main side.
The cheap non-compliant loops only come with a single isolating valve and are always fitted incorrectly.

 

[Madrab]

I'd recommend trying to find out why the system is losing pressure rather than change the loop.

Constant filling isn't good for a central heating system as dilutes the inhibitor and accelerates corrosion.

 

[Gasguru]

The OP hasn't mentioned the top up frequency but a good system should go at least 6 months before needing a little top up and generally last a year.

 

[Madrab]

If it's at the point where the head of the valve is starting to round then my guess would be it's getting filled pretty regularly ....

 

[oilboffin]

Too much fresh water introduces air into the system and this causes corrosion.Bob

 

[Jupiter01]

I wouldn’t say that it’s more frequent than once every 6-9 months. It’s for my folks and it just means that I have to go around and do this each time. The valves could be a lot easier.

Thanks for the advice above but I’m still unclear on how I do this and on which pipes. Can someone go through this again please?

Thanks

 

[dilalio]

T on mains pipe, T on CH return pipe, filling loop connected between.
If you're doing this somewhere you can't see/read the pressure gauge on the boiler, then get a filling loop that has an integrated gauge or add one via a compression T on the system side of the new loop.

 

[Jupiter01]

Thanks @dilalio. Once this is in place, what do i do with the current mechanism? Do I just open that fully?

 

[ianmcd]

Thanks @dilalio. Once this is in place, what do i do with the current mechanism? Do I just open that fully?

no you leave the existing closed, or hose removed and caps fitted would be best

 

[dilalio]

Thanks @dilalio. Once this is in place, what do i do with the current mechanism? Do I just open that fully?

What Ian said

 

[Jupiter01]

no you leave the existing closed, or hose removed and caps fitted would be best

Ok. I suppose my new hose would be cut in lower down the copper pipes and hence the water will be topped up from here; irrespective of how the existing mechanism is set - on or off

 

[Madrab]

Nope, if you left the one on the boiler as it is and with the valve open it would still be feeding mains water into the system and depending on your water pressure, would over pressurise the boiler. It needs shut off and disconnected and caps on the valves as @Gasguru & @ianmcd advised.