Final Q's before i rip up my floor

I'd put in a noggin across the opening beneath the threshold from joidt to joist. Thiat will stabilise the joists carry the wall (and later the door casing) as well as giving you somewhere to rest the joints between boards

Screws for the floorboard should be 4.5 x 50mm chipboard or flooring screws or similar.

If needs be use s hand saw to do.the last bit of trimming flush to.the wall face. Multitool can do a similar job

Great thanks I'll get cracking today.

In terms of where joists are too close to the walls where I am unable to get a bolt through/access to tighten, doi just use a few screws instead of bolts in this instance?

Cheers
 
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Just about to start sistering joists and starting here at top of stairs. Do I keep this first plank in which has s bull nose on it? Or just chisel off the tongue on it and likewise on th new floorboard and lay flush with the edge of it?
 
Up to you, but a bullnose isn't very durable in chipboard. Personally if leave it in. Add a piece under the edge so that you can tie it into the chipboard (to reduce chance of squeaking in the future)
 
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Getting there with the bedroom floor now, just a couple of lengths joists to do then I can fit the floor. I think I'm being a bit too particular trying to get it 100% level, undoing bolts and re doing them etc. There is a slight bit of bend in the board's isn't there? I'm talking a coupl of mm not centimetre.

The joists happened to be 2.5 inch sloped over 3m span so glad I'm doing this job!

Would you suggest installing noggins between new timber? Pic below

Edit: also a flooring question - i've read that tongue and groove chipboard can be hung between joists - i've not hear this before? If so, does this mean that it will not matter that my board joins will be on the joist?

IMG-20200601-WA0020.jpeg
 
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Small variations of 2 to 4mm make little difference to the overall result, as I've stated earlier. 6mm and a over you can sometimes feel when you walk across the floor.

Would you suggest installing noggins between new timber?-
On a 2.5 to 3 metre span it shouldn't make much difference, especially if your joist spacing is 16in (or just over 400mm). In your case herring bone strutting is clearly visible, so that shouldn't mske any appreviable difference.

Edit: also a flooring question - i've read that tongue and groove chipboard can be hung between joists - i've not hear this before? If so, does this mean that it will not matter that my board joins will be on the joist?
Whilst it is true that some manufacturers permit this within specific parameters (such as the maximum distance from a joist being, say 100mm) you would need to check if the manufacturer of your boards permitted this and under what circumstances. In general I think most responsible tradesmen would take the belt and braces approach of adding extra support beneath end joints that don't otherwise land on a joist. You just never know when somebody is going to roll a piano (or any other heavy load) across that unsupported joint. Being risk averse, and not liking to do call backs (for which I wouldn't get paid) I tend to just do the small amount of extra work it takes and then sleep soundly at night!
 
Small variations of 2 to 4mm make little difference to the overall result, as I've stated earlier. 6mm and a over you can sometimes feel when you walk across the floor.


On a 2.5 to 3 metre span it shouldn't make much difference, especially if your joist spacing is 16in (or just over 400mm). In your case herring bone strutting is clearly visible, so that shouldn't mske any appreviable difference.


Whilst it is true that some manufacturers permit this within specific parameters (such as the maximum distance from a joist being, say 100mm) you would need to check if the manufacturer of your boards permitted this and under what circumstances. In general I think most responsible tradesmen would take the belt and braces approach of adding extra support beneath end joints that don't otherwise land on a joist. You just never know when somebody is going to roll a piano (or any other heavy load) across that unsupported joint. Being risk averse, and not liking to do call backs (for which I wouldn't get paid) I tend to just do the small amount of extra work it takes and then sleep soundly at night!

great thanks again for your advice.

So no noggins required means less work - great news!

When putting noggins in to support an end that falls inbetween joists, would you just install the noggin in line with the edges of the board - ie do it as you go? Cheers!
 
When putting noggins in to support an end that falls inbetween joists, would you just install the noggin in line with the edges of the board - ie do it as you go? Cheers!
Do it as you go, yes, but I'd probably put the noggins in 100 to 150mm in from the edges. That way you don't exceed 400mm span without support
 
Hi there.

What would I do in this situation? I can't move the pipes as they're rigid and no access this side due to cables? Struggling to see how I can sister to this one....

15911669765752656034726899831962.jpg
 
I ripsawed a room long wedge and screwed it to the top of the joist.
Less accurate than your sistered joists, but I had no other choice owing to pipes.
SFK
 
What tool did you use and how did you measure put the depth? The depth will increase as the slope decreases? Cheers.
 
With a tape measure I measured the height of the nearest sistered joist above the original joist. I did this at the two ends of the room.

Using these two measurements (you can get a third middle measurement by taking the avereage), on my new joist I marked a line to make a long cheese shaped wedge shape.

I then used a rip saw or circular saw, cutting by eye along the line.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=rip+saw

Then I put the cut (rough) side down on the old joist so had a flat surface facing upwards.Screwed this down with the heads countersunk (flat).

Not the best way, but worked.

SFK
 
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In your circumstances there I might well consider ripping down a tapered timber from 3 x 2 softwood or the like and screwing it to the top of the joist. Easier to do if you have a laser level and some means to adjust the fitted taper, such as a jack plane or power planer. Just make sure to sink the screw heads sufficiently below the surface. Maybe worth pointing out that a few millimetres out of level here and there isn't that noticesble, if at all
 
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That's great. The section in question above is only for 1.5m or so, after that i will be able to sister a joist as normal.
 
going to start the floorboard this weekend.

Some of the joists are at an angle, so even though they are level, the level is of the top edge (ie not sat flush). do you advise planing 1mm off this edge to try and give the board more of a flush base, or will it be ok once screwed down? Is any particular side of the board easier to lay facing you/away from you? cheers

edit: just had a thought - would 18mm plywood be better for bathroom instead of 22mm chipboard? I will be putting a shower tray on a mortar bed.. cheers
 
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