Fitting A Washing Machine (no Existing Fittings)

[limakilo]

Hi everyone,

I have a new washing machine, and it's going in a little space in the back of the kitchen with the boiler. It only needs a cold water supply, and a waste pipe. My problem is there is no plumbing for a washing machine in place.

Im looking to plumb into the cold water supply going into the boiler, and use a self cutting tap. Can anyone see any serious problems with that? I know it's not pretty, or ideal, but I need a temporary fix for a while until I can try and get the pipes formalised (not a plumber but they look awful to me).

My main concern (that I have created in my head) is that maybe a washing machine feeding off the same supply as the boiler will somehow cut supply to the boiler, the boiler will run dry, overheat, and blow my house up.

Any pointers would be great!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Should not be an issue taking a CW supply direct from rising main.
But once the water gets in, you need it to get out, so what waste options have you?

And before it gets in, you need a power source, so how is that being sourced?

 

[Burnerman]

Presumably it's the cold supply into a combi boiler you are considering?
No problems with that but use a Tee piece rather than one of those dreadful self cutting failures
Is there a drain or a sink somewhere nearby?
John

 

[limakilo]

It is a combi boiler yes.

I'm not sure I've got the knack to do a tee piece. Haven't got any of the welding gear and all that.

As for the waste, originally I was going to have it going straight outside into the waste stack. But it's cast iron, and Im not pulling that down. My plan was to get some of that white pipe, do a stand pipe, and have that run across and out through the wall, and to the nearest drain outside.
My only concern is the drop would be very shallow, running low on the ground approximately 3-4 metres to the drain. I thought the pump getting into the stand pipe, and the drop in said stand pipe would be enough to get rid of the water?

I have plug sockets in that room for power.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You will need about 20mm fall per meter, ideally if the run is over 3m, you would need to consider increasing waste pipe size.

 

[limakilo]

Presumably it's the cold supply into a combi boiler you are considering?
No problems with that but use a Tee piece rather than one of those dreadful self cutting failures
Is there a drain or a sink somewhere nearby?
John

John, there is no drain or sink nearby unfortunately. All the water lines are for the boiler so I'm using the DHW inlet, a bit further away from the boiler.

I tried looking into ways to get into the cast iron stack, but there is no way into that with a washer waste pipe eh?

 

[limakilo]

You will need about 20mm fall per meter, ideally if the run is over 3m, you would need to consider increasing waste pipe size.

Should be able to manage that 20mm per meter. Why would the pipe need to be bigger if it's over 3m? Would this apply from the start of the stand pipe?

 

[Burnerman]

I think you'll get by with your proposed drain, but washing machines often need mains pressure cold water unless the installation instructions state otherwise.....do check this out!
No need to use a soldered Tee - a brass compression one will do fine.
John

 

[limakilo]

I think you'll get by with your proposed drain, but washing machines often need mains pressure cold water unless the installation instructions state otherwise.....do check this out!
No need to use a soldered Tee - a brass compression one will do fine.
John

To be honest, if that isn't mains pressure in that utility room, there is nothing I can do (that I know of), there is nowhere else for the washing machine to go. I imagine it would just take longer to fill the washing machine?

So if I get one of the compression tees, I'm just turning water off (double and triple check its off) , cutting that bit of pipe, which is probably less than an inch, get rid of the jaggered stuff, wire wool it, and then fit the compression thing? Test for leaks etc?

 

[Burnerman]

Do check the machine requirements for water.....for example, a dishwasher needs main pressure cold - the fill valve won't open otherwise.
Give us a pic of your proposed supply pipe - typically you need to cut a 10mm piece of pipe away to get the tee in, but it isn't always necessary.
John

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Should be able to manage that 20mm per meter. Why would the pipe need to be bigger if it's over 3m? Would this apply from the start of the stand pipe?

It is part of the building regs and concerns loss of plug/seals in the traps and prevents fouls seals returning into the property.

 

[limakilo]

That left hand one is the cold into the boiler.

It's the fourth copper along there.

Just been looking at this, but that flexipipe hose goes from the cold water (into boiler), into the return pipe for the central heating, with the little switch valve. Could I just unscrew that and screw in a tap?

 

[Burnerman]

No, that's the boiler filling loop....but you could break into it's supply pipe - only one cut needed, insert the tee, add a short piece of pipe to the open bit and fit a washer tap valve to that.
John

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Or you could remove the compression elbow just before fill loop valve and replace that with a compression tee. But it really depends where in relationship the WM is going to be located to the pipework?

 

[Burnerman]

Consider clipping the pipe to the wall too.....machine valves close quickly which is likely to cause a clunk every time.
John