Fixing Solid Wood flooring... to a ceiling

[RandomHero7]

Bit of an odd one this.

I have a customer of mine who wants to try something different, namely fixing solid wood to a ceiling. I'm talking about the tongue and groove planks normally found in living rooms and dining rooms. I know how to fix it to a floor, but this has me baffled.

Has anyone had any experience fixing to a ceiling before and if so, how did you do it? I'm unsure of the surface to be fixed to, so multiple options would be great!

Cheers in advance
Paul

 

[WoodYouLike]

Battens I would say (at least 50mm thick) to the ceiling, then secret nailing the floor to it.
(You've got all sorts of clients!)

 

[big-all]

i take it youve told them about normal 9mm thick txg with nice chamferd edges

my concerns would be the weight you now have the eqivilent of around 1/4 to 1/2 a ton hanging off the ceiling

if you are shure off the structural strength and are determined to go ahead i personaly would use 2x1" sawn timber for battons at 24 to 30" centres

i would use 50mm nails as you are nailing from the top off the tounge to the ceiling which is around 37mm at 45degrees =around 51mm

also if your in the least worried use a bead of no nails top and bottom of the batton for extra fixing
making shure you only cover an area you will reach within around 10 mins

 

[Symptoms]

Paul - battens (2 x 1) screwed to ceiling joists, either through the existing plaster or better still - remove all the plaster to gain direct access to the joists. This will enable you to true everything-up (shims, etc.) to gain a flat plane for the bats. Use a brad nailer (15g brads) or finish nailer through the tongues to fix (secret); you'll not be able to use a floor cleat nailer satisfactorily in this position (upside-down). Anyway, if they really do want that 70s notty pine look (yuk) consider big-all's advice about thin pine cladding.

 

[chappers]

don't use chunky 15-22mm tongue and groove get some 6mm matchboard