flickering low energy

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two ordinary drops both from same switch,tried putting low energy bulbs in them,but they flicker,and if you put your ear close you can hear a sort of crackle.
if i remove one, the remaining one still flickers,but if replace one of them with a normal bulb,the low energy one stops flickering.
anyone know the reason for this,thanks
 
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yes

it happens a lot, especially on landing/hall lights with two-way switching.

Caused by capacitive coupling in the cable

nothing to worry about. Tiny currents in the cable build up within the CFL until there is enough to cause a momentary flicker.

Adding a low-wattage filament bulb on the circuit will drain away these tiny currents so the flicker stops,

It is more common if the lighting cables do not have an earth wire in them, or if the earth is not connected (if it is, the tiny current tends to leak into the earth instead of into the lamp)
 
do you find this is more prolific on installations that are wired using 3C+E?

surely it's the yellow/blue or black/grey that are not seperated by an earth conductor that is causing the capacitive coupling moreso than the old way of T+E strappers and single+E reds?
 
thanks for the replys.there is no earth in the lighting circuit,
any way to stop it happening ? or can normal bulbs only be used
 
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Normal 'bulbs' are all very well as a temporary fix*, but if your lighting circuit has no earth, it will be 40+ years old and most likely due for replacement.

Hopefully you don't have any metal light fittings or metal switches?

*considering that what you call 'normal bulbs' have in the main been banned already, and those which haven't soon will be.
 
normal bulbs it is then
Why? You've already been told theres nothing wrong with the phenomenon. I have a cheap Wilko 18w lamp on my landing thats always flickered when off, been there 2 years now. :idea:
 
Similar prob. my old dad bought new apartment designed for elderly folks.
No lamps supplied so we got a load of low energy ones as he tends not to turn them off much.
He complained that at night although turned off they kept flickering and glowing at night.
Found each light switch had a nice illuminated perspex surround with neon connected across switch terms. like some waterproof switches have to enable them to be located in the dark.
These rely on tiny current drawn thro. lamp, not a prob with incandescents but enough to keep LE types on, disconnected neons JD.
 
These rely on tiny current drawn thro. lamp, not a prob with incandescents but enough to keep LE types on, disconnected neons JD.
It could have overheated or burnt out the neon too, with the CFL constantly wanting more current and trying to start.
 
These rely on tiny current drawn thro. lamp, not a prob with incandescents but enough to keep LE types on, disconnected neons JD.
It could have overheated or burnt out the neon too, with the CFL constantly wanting more current and trying to start.
I have used CFLs throughout for over 12 years now; the only one that has ever flickered was on a circuit with a neon in the [MK] switch. However, after changing the light fitting and with a different CFL in it, two years ago, the flickering has stopped, and the neon in the switch still works as it has for over 20 years.

It may be worth trying a different brand of CFL - there are plenty of offers around.
 

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