floor sanding

[jabberwocki]

Have started sanding my softwood floor-About 30 year old and in very good nick apart from a black band around the perimeter and 2 gaps where the boards have been sawed for central heating/electrics.
questions
1. the black band appears to be some sort of carpet tape as it is a material. When pulled off it leaves a white residue. Anyone any ideas of the best way to remove.
2.What is the best way to fill the gaps.

Thanks

 

[mac391]

I would just use heavy sand paper on the adhesive tape residue, you'll have to change the paper often but it will come off. You could try some thinners and a scraper but i'd just use elbow grease on this one.
If you have gaps along the length of the boards due to plumbers/sparks cutting the tongue of the floor away to get it up, and have a void underneath(hollow space) its realy awkward. let me know if this is the case.. If the gaps are where the boards have been cut across the width you can mix the dust collected by the sander with a resin which makes the perfect colour match filler. the resin is called lycol but there are others on the market.

Have started sanding my softwood floor-About 30 year old and in very good nick apart from a black band around the perimeter and 2 gaps where the boards have been sawed for central heating/electrics.
questions
1. the black band appears to be some sort of carpet tape as it is a material. When pulled off it leaves a white residue. Anyone any ideas of the best way to remove.
2.What is the best way to fill the gaps.

Thanks

 

[WoodYouLike]

If your floor does not have T&G trying to fill gaps with a mix of wood-filler and sand-dust is a waste of time, eventually - due to seasonal movement - it will fall in the void.

Also remember softwood will dent easily, so even if you sand your floor down and apply a new finish (what type of finish do you have in mind?) dents and damages will re-appear reasonably quickly.

 

[mac391]

Thats what i meant about it being akward. Using original sanding dust with lycol is the best finish and there are plenty of ways to stop it falling out into the void if the tongue is missing, just not an easy DIY job. It will work well if the gap is across the plank assuming the plumber cut it in the right place, above the joist. You used to be able to buy slithers to fill long gaps with the tongue missing but havn't seen thee for ages. You could have them made from a new plank. problem here though is the new plank will be whiter, 30yr old pine will naturally yellow or darken over time so a reclaimed plank would be better. You could also lift the plank with the gap and cut the bottom of the grove off and use that. Can only realy do this if the gap is pretty even though. Anoter way is to lift the plank, attach a 6mm piece of ply underneath and fit back closing the void off so the filler doesn't fall out. All a bit faffy and it will never look perfect but you did ask lol. If you don't sand too much and keep the floor rustic looking any repairs will be less noticeable. The easiest way but only if your lucky is to buy a reclaimed board with the tongue in tact. Most T&G from te 80's is 22mm thick and might just drop straight in. Even if its too wide it can be cut to width..

If your floor does not have T&G trying to fill gaps with a mix of wood-filler and sand-dust is a waste of time, eventually - due to seasonal movement - it will fall in the void.

Also remember softwood will dent easily, so even if you sand your floor down and apply a new finish (what type of finish do you have in mind?) dents and damages will re-appear reasonably quickly.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Using original sanding dust with lycol is the best finish

Don't you mean Lecol? As in the Lecol7500 wood-filler? (Indeed a great product we use often, never heard of Lycol though)

 

[TimS]

Have started sanding my softwood floor-About 30 year old and in very good nick apart from a black band around the perimeter and 2 gaps where the boards have been sawed for central heating/electrics.
questions
1. the black band appears to be some sort of carpet tape as it is a material. When pulled off it leaves a white residue. Anyone any ideas of the best way to remove.
2.What is the best way to fill the gaps.

Thanks

Hi, having just finished what sounds like a similar job in a house we're renovating, the white residue is best removed with the aid of a scraper & hot air / heat gun.

Aim the gun at the residue till it starts bubbling and then scrape off. Works a treat but may need 2 or 3 goes if there's several layers of it left. Suggest opening any windows in the vicinity too...

You can also try sanding but you'll go through sandpaper sheets quickly - the stuff tends to become sticky when warmed and will quickly clog up the paper.

Good luck!

Tim

 

[jabberwocki]

Thanks foir the help. Just thinking about the gaps. Thay are only a couple cross ways so can be filled. Can you mix wood glue with last sanding, also can you use this for the nail holes. I would assume you will then need to sand again. Thanks

 

[WoodYouLike]

Don't use wood glue for a job like this but the proper stuff (like Lecol5500) and yes you can fill nail holes with it and you'll have to sand off the excess filler when it is dry.