Fluke T130 on loose wires

WHY DO YOU LIE, LIE, LIE? The meter you show in post 7 (which is one type of 2 pole tester) clearly has removable leads. I have not offered incorrect advice (I never do), and I DO know what I am talking about.
The only education I need is to learn why you are such a plon***.
Well you PLON*** you OBVIOUSLY don't know what you're talking about because YOU gave the advice in post #5 BEFORE I posted the picture in post#7 and for your information:
upload_2021-4-16_3-37-44.png


Yet again you have given the wrong advice and when this is pointed out to you, yet again you deny giving wrong advice. Just look back over the thread, right back to the title. If you don't know what a Fluke T130 is then you have 2 choices:
1) Ignore the thread and let other people, who do know, offer correct advice. or
2) Spend a few seconds finding out what a Fluke T130 is before offering WRONG advice.

Of course there is a third option:
3) Do you usual thing and give wrong advice YET AGAIN and prove to the ensemble what a stupid [other descriptors removed] person you are YET AGAIN.

YET AGAIN you do the expected thing... option 3 and by default prove to the emsemble...
 
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All you had to say was, “A T130 has captive leads”. No need to shout insulting comments in red. You need lessons in diplomacy.
 
All you had to say was, “A T130 has captive leads”. No need to shout insulting comments in red. You need lessons in diplomacy.
Initial rude comments deleted.
 
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All you had to say was, “A T130 has captive leads”. No need to shout insulting comments in red. You need lessons in diplomacy.
The thing is Winston I, and if I understand correctly, the other contributers publically and privately just accept that you don't know what you're talking about when you're posts are wrong and you are so wrong so much of the time.
When this is pointed out to you, rather than an apology or simple acceptance of the fact, like every other knowledgable contributer on this forum, you get aggressive and insulting A classic example of which appears only a few posts back
WHY DO YOU LIE, LIE, LIE?
I think even you will have to agree that is agressive, unless you are truly thick [which I actually do not think is the case].
and
The only education I need is to learn why you are such a plon***.
I think even you will have to agree that is an insult, unless you are truly thick [which I actually do not think is the case]

I accept my replies to you tend to follow in the same vein simply because I believe it is the only language you understand.

Occassionally you come up with some terrific advice/comments, sadly it is not very often. When you do I will offer my thanks or like, much more so than to others which is basically an insult to the others for which I apologise to them.

So how about it Winston? A little change in you attitude perhaps? maybe a little research sometimes before posting incorrect advice? or simply not posting when you don't know?
 
It appears we have a new member Winston 1 who joined today who has admitted in his first post that he is an idiot. I am surprised the mods let him have a user name so much like another well established member.

For the avoidance of doubt this is not me Winston1. {I have no space before the 1}.
 
Can I ask (which may be helpful to op), if there’s a cable been left exposed, and turns out to be live (proved with careful live testing), is there a safer way to do this? Eg turn the big red (main isolator) off, trim wires back, and then suggested chock block method?
 
Can I ask (which may be helpful to op), if there’s a cable been left exposed, and turns out to be live (proved with careful live testing), is there a safer way to do this? Eg turn the big red (main isolator) off, trim wires back, and then suggested chock block method?
Chocolate block or wagos is about the most common these days.
 
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Chocolate block or wagos is about the most common these days.
But would I turn the main iso off, or could I just turn off rcd/mcb, to safely isolate first?

Also would a fuse finder be beneficial in this scenario or useless?
 
But would I turn the main iso off, or could I just turn off rcd/mcb, to safely isolate first?

Also would a fuse finder be beneficial in this scenario or useless?
I'll always recommend the big switch for safety.

Personally I've not had total success with a 'fuse finder'
 
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I'll always recommend the big switch for safety.
Would this mean that every time I am working on any circuit (for any duration), I need to put the whole house out of action? Is it safe to isolate that individual circuit (once appropriately tested) and then lock the MCB before working on this?
 
Would this mean that every time I am working on any circuit (for any duration), I need to put the whole house out of action? Is it safe to isolate that individual circuit (once appropriately tested) and then lock the MCB before working on this?
The SAFEST answer is isolate the whole thing as the MCB only breaks the line [live] conductor and no amount of 'testing for dead' will assure perfect safety once terminals are undone. Borrowed or Shared neutrals used to be very commonplace, this is where 2 MCB's use the same neutral for all or part of the circuit and particularly for 2 way switched lights between floors.

In my current house I made significant changes to the lighting circuits over a 20 year period and didn't know I had 2 lights using the wrong neutral until squirrels chewed a cable in the loft. Having turned off the upstairs lights MCB I disconnected the damaged cable and promptly got a belt via the landing light which was supplied by the downstairs lights MCB but on the unstairs neutral.

These days with RCBO's there is a hugely reduced risk of finding such issues but faults do occur and when someone asks the question, I'll assume they have less experience than me to cope with the unexpected and for their [your] safety I'll give the same answer. This is definitely NOT an insult, this is me offering safety advice.
 

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