Fluorescent Lighting Circuit

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I'm currently installing a couple of fluorescent lights in the loft and I was wondering what the recommended way of wiring in a switch is since fluorescent lights (at least all the ones I've seen) don't have loop terminals like regular ceiling roses. The way I see it I have the following options (from //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting:single_way_lighting and various posts):

1) Get a double pole switch and wire from the FCU to the switch and then onto the lights.
2) Use a bit of chocky block in the switch and use a standard switch. Wire from the FCU to the switch and then onto the lights.
3) Use a bit of chocky block in the light to provide the loop block and enable wiring in a switch wire as with normal lighting ciruits.

I quite like number 3 but the circuit will never have any additional switched lights in it so 2 is probably the easier option.

How come fluorescent lights don't include a loop block? Seems to me that where ever you install fluorescent lights you are going to end up with chocky blocks or junction boxes.
 
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From FCU to the switch, reds to switch, neutral in a connector block then out to the light?
 
If you take your feed cable and switch cable into the switch, join the Neutrals together in a connector, line to either side of the switch (feed line to 'C') , CPCs together, then you will not need a 'loop' terminal at the lights.
 
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If you are using a FCU anyway why bother with a seperate switch?
 
If you are careful how you strip the sheath off you can leave the neutral conductor unbroken at the switch and not need a choc-block.

There is a 2nd way to avoid using choc, but it confuses the hell out of people working on the thing in the future, so shouldn't be advised...
 
Interesting suggestion about carefully stripping the outer sheath back. I found a few circuits wired like that in this house while I was taking out the old wiring. I assumed that it was fairly bad practice though as it left quite a lot of neutral and earth (most of which wasn't sheathed) in the back box.

As for why I have a switch and an FCU... I've already mounted the FCU near the ring it is being fed from. It's simpler now to just run some 1.5mm to a switch than it would be to move the FCU and fit a switched FCU. If / when I do this again in the future I'll just install a switched FCU.
 
Obviously the cpc needs to be cut and sleeved, just as it would be if you simply cut the cable, but you shouldn't end up with any more unsheathed length than if you cut and choc-block, or hardly any more.....
 
In a loft I would normally replace the original three way block connector for a four way so that if replaced for an emergency light in the future it already has a line supply for emergency function.
 
Not all of them RF, I'm working my way through fitting 50 x Thorn 58w 5ft single batens w/diffuser.

Not found any loop terminal yet, I tend to replace (or rarther get the lad to) the 3-way with a strip of 4 connector blocks.

I do like Thorn fittings though, so much easier than those god-awfull fitzgerald euro lightpack jobbys.
 

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