Ford Ka MK1 Coolent flush - query and questions

[carmanmemoranda]

Not sure there is a level line. I was just going to measure what comes out and put the same amount back in.
My workshop guide does not show the diagram of the drain and fill locations, so i have to work that out. And yes, I have educated myself already on the need to check the fill valve/nut before draining!

Only problem with that is the gearbox might not be full. No point changing the oil if you don't fill it to the correct level.

Ka , and fords generally are topped up until the oil is level with the bottom of the filler plug.

Which means the car needs to be as level as possible, not easy if the car is on a jack.


It is manual, not auto ?

 

[dishman]

Yes, it's a manual. Yes, I think the workshop manual does say something along the lines of 2mm below the filler plug.

 

[Burnerman]

If you fancy, give us a photo of the filler and drain plugs so we can confirm?
As for the level, a couple of millimetres below the plug will make no difference - meniscus and all that.
I fill them up until the oil starts to flow, then leave it a while to drain off a bit.
Confession time......if the transmission shows no oil leakage, I just leave them be these days.
John

 

[Mottie]

Confession time......if the transmission shows no oil leakage, I just leave them be these days.

I’ve always done that. It’s not as if they could burn it, is it.

 

[Stivino]

I’ve always done that. It’s not as if they could burn it, is it.

That's my theory, too. If it's not on the outside, it must be on the inside.

 

[dishman]

I've mused the option of just leaving it. And it would be the easier option.

I was just pondering of the age of the gear oil getting on for 16+ years.

Isn't it also likely that there are wear contaminates over time? (although I would expect more with high mileage vs age)

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Isn't isn't it also likely that there are wear contaminates over time? (although I would expect more with high mileage vs age)

Contaminates, are not the problem they once were. Metal finishing techniques, and modern manufacturing, are so much better.

Changing the oil, you might help extend the working life some, and I found the slightly sticky gear change, improved a little.

 

[dishman]

Just curious what kind of idle power draw you would expect on a car of this era (MK1 ford KA).

I was checking a potential battery issue (now resolved) and as a check for parasitic draw I measured the current with my multimeter in series across the negative terminal of the battery and corresponding connector.....and nothing, it just measured in 0amps DC. This was after the car had been locked and left for 30min to go to sleep.

I tried measuring something in the 10A range, the mA range and even the uA range on the multimeter, and got no detectable reading at all.

I was expecting at the very least 0.02–0.05 amps as something normal. But I can't get a reading at all which seams odd, as the car at the very least has a clock, an alarm or immobiliser and a basic ECU, so there should be something detectable, shouldn't there?

The only thing I can think is, 1) I was doing something wrong 2) It's too small to detect?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

The only thing I can think is, 1) I was doing something wrong

You were doing something wrong, if that is a modern car, with modern electronics. You should expect a discharge between 10 and 50mA.

 

[dishman]

Strange, I can't think what I could have got wrong.

1) Multimeter in A DC or mA DC
2) probe in the 10A socket or mA socket.
3) Disconnected negative terminal.
4) Connect one probe to the battery terminal and the other to the cable end.

Just to clarify, there is no battery issue now, or any other issue.

It's pure curiosity as to why I can't get a reading.

 

[Burnerman]

That's exactly how I would do it - maybe your meter has some sort of incorrect polarity function?
Maybe set it to 10A, and then just open a door to put the courtesy light on.......something should show!
John

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

2) probe in the 10A socket or mA socket.

On the 10A range, in series between a battery lug, on the end of the cable, and the battery terminal - you should see a reading, if you open door, and the interior light comes on.

It's pure curiosity as to why I can't get a reading.

Perhaps the meter is faulty? They usually include an internal 10amp fuse, to protect the meter. If that has blown, then the meter will not show any reading, in the current ranges.

 

[dishman]

Perhaps the meter is faulty? They usually include an internal 10amp fuse, to protect the meter. If that has blown, then the meter will not show any reading, in the current ranges.

Bingo!

I actually worked it out myself last night as I was going through possibilities. Looks like the 800mA fuse popped at some point without me realising.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Looks like the 800mA fuse popped at some point without me realising.

Very easily done, when messing with car electrics, with such large variations in current, and switching ranges. When I had a parasitic discharge to track down, I was lucky to find my car had a nice, easy link, in the main fuse-box. So it was just a matter of connecting the meter either side, of the link, settling the car down into it's sleep mode, putting the meter on the correct rang, then removing the link - which meant nothing electronic was woken up.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Diagnostic Result

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC / OBDII): N/A
Vehicle: Ford Ka Mk1 (1996-2008)
Detailed: In the midst of replacing the heater control valve.

Why are you posting this irrelevant AI rubbish?