Fresh Plaster Showing Damp?, Chimney Breast with Photos!

[Reginalddean]

Many thanks for all your responses, today Ive painted with damp block and hopefully covered it up, will emulsion in a couple of weeks prior to putting colour on.

Fingers crossed!

Cheers

 

[stuart45]

A friend of mine used swimming pool paint where he had rising damp on an old property he was selling. He then emulsioned over the top. Nothing showed on the damp meter and no stains came through.
The problem with any water based paint is that the salts will go in to it.

 

[wsdconst]

should have dot and dabbed it like rough caster would

 

[roughcaster]

Yeh,,, that'll be right WSD. My views, on dot and dab are well documented on this Forum, along with the problems others have had with it.

Roughcaster.

 

[wsdconst]

so then rough caster would you not agree that in this situation dot and dab would have out performed traditional methods

 

[stuart45]

This is dot and dab on a wall with h/salts View media item 6159

 

[roughcaster]

so then rough caster would you not agree that in this situation dot and dab would have out performed traditional methods

How can dot and dabbing plasterboard onto a contaminated wall be better than traditional plastering???? Just look at the picture in the post above.... A perfect example of things going wrong after an attempted cover up with d/d... Scratch coating, and then plastering out,,,,, or even double coat rendering over a bad wall and skimming it with multi finish,, would stop any further problems occuring as regards to hygroscopic salts etc coming through,,I've done it this way for a few decades now.... If I do have to use plasterboard, It's screwed onto timber battens, then scrimmed,,, coated with bonding coat and then m/finished

Roughcaster.

 

[^woody^]

If you dot and dab, but use one of the new foam adhesives instead of traditional adhesive, then you wont get the problem

 

[roughcaster]

I am just not a fan of D*D Woody. Never have been. I know it's a fairly common method of finishing a wall nowadays, but it's more about house builders saving money, than for the beauty or the good of the job,, or the benefit to the homeowner. Sure it's quick and easy to do, but it's cheap to do as well, and that's the attraction..... Stick/dab the boards onto the bricks/blocks,, a quick tape or a thin skim over (if you're lucky),, a couple of coats of paint and the jobs done. It is also an easy way to cover up problems with walls etc, only for them to return another day..... If I had a solid wall/chimney breast, that had a problem with large areas of salts etc ruining the new surface, and someone came in and stuck a few sheets of plasterboard over it, be it with the new foam or any other adhesive,,,, to me, the mess/problem has just been covered over,, hidden,, but not erradicated. I have no problem with batten/stud plasterboard walls at all... A lot of us have had this debate before over the months..We'll have it again sometime too.. Nothing changes.

Roughcaster.

 

[wsdconst]

i m with woody on this one although i m still abit unsure about foam adhesive but it is a much easier option, and obvisiously i would seal any old surfaces.

 

[noseall]

i m with woody on this one although i m still abit unsure about foam adhesive but it is a much easier option, and obvisiously i would seal any old surfaces.

woody understands what is going on, you on the other hand, have not got the first clue.

 

[roughcaster]

WSD,what would "you" do to that wall now, in Stuart45's picture. It's been dot and dabbed once and it failed,,,,miserablely,,, would the customer trust you to dot and dab again, even after having the wall sealed, and the the new sheets "stuck on" using the very latest technology (foam glue), what would be "your" guaranteed permanant fix,,, for a now,,very sceptical fed up customer?

Roughcaster.

 

[wsdconst]

NOSEALL WHEN I SAID I WAS UNSURE ABOUT USING FOAM I ACTUALLY MEANT ITS PEFORMANCE OVER TIME AS IT S NOT BEEN AROUND FOR THAT LONG, THATS ALL. AND AS FOR YOU ROUGH CASTER I WOULD TELL MY CLIENT TO CONTACT YOU AS YOUR THE BEST IN THE WORLD.FUNNY THING IS NOSEALL ACTUALY SAID IT COULD NT BE DETECTED UNTIL AFTER IT WAS PLASTERED WHICH MEANS ANY METHOD COULD HAVE FAILED.WHY YOU ALL GANGING UP ON ME IS IT BECAUSE I M THE NEW GUY WITH THE RADICAL IDEAS ?

 

[wsdconst]

HEY NOSEALL JUST READ ANOTHER POST WHERE YOU ADVISED SOMEONE TO USE UPVC SHIPLAP CLADDING INTERNALLY, AND YOU SAY I DONT KNOW WHATS GOING ON. I THINK YOU SHOULD CHANGE YOUR NAME TO NOSEJACK

 

[roughcaster]

Roughcaster wrote,

It's always a gamble using gypsum plasters on old brickwork/stonework without "at least" scratch coating them with sand,cement w/proofer first..

Ok WSD,,,, no need to shout and get nasty.. Noseall's right about hygroscopic salts in walls,,, it can't be detected until after it has been plastered with "gypsum",,,, but it can be "expected", especially with older bricks/blocks. By scratch-coating before plastering, you are preparing for the possibility, and can "eliminate" the problem of the salts etc coming through the plaster, so this method of wet plastering is unlikely to fail... I do it all the time on this type of surface,,,, and have been doing it for a long time.. Prevention is better than a cure,, and that is what I meant in the earlier post/quote above......and listen,,,,,,nobody gangs up on anybody else on this Forum, everybodys views are respected,,,,sometimes questioned,,, but nevertheless respected,,,,, although come on mate,,, radical ideas on Dot and Dab ???

Roughcaster.