Fridge freezer power cord not long enough.

[Steve]

When i fitted my built in fridge freezer i fitted the socket low down under the cabinet behind the plinth. You're not meant to have sockets so low but it was the only option. And there was a gap at the back for heat circulation anyway. The unit has the ability to be turned off for defrosting without turning the socket off so accessing the socket was not an issue though it can be got at if necessary.

In the OPs shoes I'd probably get a 3 metre single socket extension and leave the socket under the unit. Drill a big hole in the bottom shelf if necessary.

 

[EFLImpudence]

It's difficult to imagine a room, let alone a kitchen, where the only sockets seem to be near the ceiling.

 

[ericmark]

I have a freezer at my mothers which turning the controls to off does not actually turn it off I have to switch off the socket in order to de-frost. It is also not a good idea to have multi-fuses in the supply to a refrigeration unit as the volt drop at start is often critical unless using an inverter model.

So select where it will fit and put a switch between the socket and fridge which will both join the two cables together and allow one to switch off with ease for defrost and any faults.

I have a standard extension lead on my freezer but it is an inverter model so there is very little start load.

 

[JohnW2]

It is also not a good idea to have multi-fuses in the supply to a refrigeration unit as the volt drop at start is often critical unless using an inverter model.

That surely could only apply to that very small number of people whose supply voltage is very close to the permitted minimum (216.2V). For anyone else, the (very small) voltage drop introduced by a fuse will leave their refrigerator with a voltage higher than the 'normal' supply voltage seen by those unfortunate few (if there are any!) who have only a 216.2V supply.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ericmark]

It is also not a good idea to have multi-fuses in the supply to a refrigeration unit as the volt drop at start is often critical unless using an inverter model.

That surely could only apply to that very small number of people whose supply voltage is very close to the permitted minimum (216.2V). For anyone else, the (very small) voltage drop introduced by a fuse will leave their refrigerator with a voltage higher than the 'normal' supply voltage seen by those unfortunate few (if there are any!) who have only a 216.2V supply.

Kind Regards, John

I would agree with you, however most freezers have it written in the instructions not to use extension leads so clearly the manufacturers see it as a problem.

OK I will admit many years ago, I was working in Algiers where the supply was 110 volt three phase, working for a Dutch company our AC units were 220 volt and the Dutch electrician had fitted a standard 220 volt AC across two phases. It did work, but they were failing around every 3 months where normally they ran trouble free. Measuring I found I was getting around 190 volts across two phases and in Algiers the local shops were selling 190 volt versions of AC units. One of these cured the problem. I agree more volt drop than the 216.2 equivalent would have been 200 volt. However it is that 3 months where they worked OK which is the problem. One is unaware of the damage being done until it is too late, so if no need why take a chance.

I will also admit it is only the overload built into the motor which fails and these can be changed without removing the gas so for an electrician it is not such a big problem. However when I wanted a new thermostat for my mothers freezer I found I simply could not buy one local. Although many refrigeration firms around they had no shop front and only way to get parts was to call them out to house. Minimum call out charge was £65 with repairs on top of that, so in real terms for most people what ever goes wrong it is buy new.

 

[JohnW2]

I would agree with you, however most freezers have it written in the instructions not to use extension leads so clearly the manufacturers see it as a problem.

I could only speculate as to why they say that, but I very much doubt that it has got anything to do with voltage drops across fuses.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Diyisfun]

Hard to know what the sizes are as OP refused to answer the simple question, but inbuilt fridges can have fill the whole unit and exhaust the heat via a vent/grille at the bottom. Best answer is to replace with longer flex as morg suggested.

If it has a vent at the front the air circulation is, in at the front under & up at the back.

 

[ericmark]

I would agree with you, however most freezers have it written in the instructions not to use extension leads so clearly the manufacturers see it as a problem.

I could only speculate as to why they say that, but I very much doubt that it has got anything to do with voltage drops across fuses.

Kind Regards, John

Since my fridge/freezer and freezer also have it in the instructions in spite have a three phase motor and inverter drive so very little in-rush at start and no mechanical over load to be damaged it would seem it is a general instruction and the manual writers have not really worked out if still required or not.

But the old unit used under 100W run however would rupture a 5A fuse on start up, how quick the energy meter was to registered the start up amps I don't know but it showed 10 amps on start. I wanted to find out the size of the de-frost heater and thought it would be higher than the motor which it was at 120W but I had to watch to see it cut in I could not simply read max amps. Which I could do with units I have now.

Clearly there is both volt drop in the cable and the fuse of an extension lead and in real terms a 1 meter lead should not be a problem. We have no idea what the volt drop is even without the extension lead, so keeping it as low as possible makes sense.