Great...I may know someone then who is a real handy man, who I trust and has done other work for us. My husband and I are not great at DIY sadly...we've done a bit of painting/stripping wallpaper/can wire a plug, but that's as far as it goes. Thanks
@MJN - yes, I am amazed that you all spend so much of your free time giving free advice to people online! So thanks to you all for that.
if you can wire a plug you can wire a pipe stat , it is actually easier to wire the pipe statcan wire a plug, but that's as far as it goes.
if you can wire a plug you can wire a pipe stat , it is actually easier to wire the pipe stat
Thanks for the info!As @ianmcd the wiring is straight forward. Here's how it's done.
View attachment 222811
The tricky bit is locating the pipe stat in the best place:
- It should be on the return pipe to the boiler so that the heated water has circulated through the heating system before reaching it.
- Not too close to the boiler such that residual heat from the boiler is conducted along the pipe thus keeping it warm and preventing it switching on.
And what temperature to set it at:
- If the pipe stat is in a normally heated part of the home I usually set it at 5 to 10 degrees above ambient room temperature. So for example if the ambient temperature where it is located when the heating was off overnight remained at around 16 to 18 degrees, and the pipe stat was set to 15 degrees it would never switch on and no frost protection to any external at risk pipes would be provided.
- If the pipe stat is in an unheated area, a much lower setting of 10 to 15 degrees would probably be sufficient. [remember the pipe stat is primarily measuring the temperature of the water in the pipe, not the room temperature]
A frost stat is simply a switch, and the pipe stat is simply another switch wired in series, nothing complicated at all
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