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Fuse Board to Consumer Unit?

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by dpm_dpmartin, 29 Aug 2015.

  1. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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    I don't know yet, but I'm pretty positive there's no issues with sharing electricity and metering. It's not an oddball house or a weird setup in general, it's just a simple terrace that seemingly hasn't had anything done with the electrics this century (as someone said).
     
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  3. bernardgreen

    bernardgreen

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    Sorry but the fact that it worked for the people living there does not mean it is safe. There appears to be twin and earth connected directly to the incoming supply ( via the Henley blocks ) without any fusing other than the 80 or 100 fuse in the cut out. Had that twin and earth been damaged to the extent that it shorted then there would be an extremely high risk of fire. A short circuit of 80 amps at 230 volts is 18 kWatts of heat which will melt cables and set fire to adjacent materials.
     
  4. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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    While this may be true, it's probably true of a large percentage of older terraced houses in many towns across the entire country. What was acceptable in the past has become unacceptable as new regulations have come along. It doesn't mean everything is ripped-out and replaced because a regulation changed. Suffice to say I definitely see the need for this system to be upgraded, that's for sure, but I don't think we can assert whether it's safe or unsafe from the photograph. We can have suspicions...

    I'm mostly interested in a) what can be done for free by Northern PowerGrid, as I'd like to take advantage of that for obvious reasons, and I'm grateful that has been highlighted to me, and, b) whether I'm looking at the right Consumer Board - a good one, I mean - for the replacement (which an Electrician will definitely do, not me) and I'm grateful the notification to the local authority angle has been pointed out to me here.
     
  5. JohnW2

    JohnW2

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    Indeed - but, as you can see from the speculation going on in this thread, there are more than enough uncertainties and 'suspicions' to suggest that at least the bits you've shown us ought to be looked at, if not a full EICR.
    Amidst the uncertainties and speculations, it's pretty likley that there will be no work relevant to the DNO. It seems pretty likely that the DNO bits in that photograph are redundant (and 'dead'), having been replace by a new service in the outside cabinet.
    As has been suggested, it really is very premature to be thinking about replacement CUs before you have any idea of the totality of the electrical work that may be required - a bit like trying to decide what colour upholstery one wants in a new car before deciding what make, model, price range etc. of car one is looking for. In any event, an electrician who replaced the CU would advise on which one to use, and could very probably get it cheaper than you could.

    Kind Regards, John
     
  6. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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    I'm trying to ask if that's a good brand, style, feature-filled Consumer Unit... is it recommended, above others, is it average / standard or is it not to be recommended because it's fiddly or unreliable or they're known to fall apart? I'm not heading out to buy one... I'm researching them and I don't know how one might compare the options that are available.
     
  7. OwainDIYer

    OwainDIYer

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    It's possible that the house has a new supply through the new meter cabinet, but the old cutout remains live feeding the neighbour.

    Nothing can be done until an electrician actually isnpects and tests on-site.
     
  8. The OP seems so persistent on verifying whether the CU he has found is "suitable", I suspect, no electrician will be visiting this property, so on the basis of the uncertainty of the existing installation & my suspicions, I will not respond to whether any CU is suitable for this job, as stated earlier, this is a job for the electrician to specify, not the customer
     
  9. JohnW2

    JohnW2

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    Fair enough, but my comments remain. Quite apart from issues of make, quality, opinions etc., there are technical issues (e.g. RCBOs or MCBs, how many and what ratings etc.) which mean that only the electrician who was going to do the work could decide what was required, and what (s)he personally preferred to work with.

    Kind Regards, John
     
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  11. JohnW2

    JohnW2

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    I don't like making assumptions/judgements about OPs, but it's hard to think of any other explanation for why he keeps asking about a 'suitable CU'. Maybe we need BAS here :)

    Kind Regards, John
     
  12. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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    Whoa! That's completely incorrect. I want to know whether this, or anything else, is a good Consumer Unit because I can then specify what I want to the Electrician. Your assertions / suspicions are completely unfounded - and 100% incorrect - and I request that you take it back as it is actually offensive. It is my right - as a paying customer - to specify what parts I want to be used in a job, not an Electrician's, who is simply providing a service. They might say "oh, you want a Bosch Consumer Unit as they're good" but I want to decide, based on my research. This is just like alarm systems - you get people who have their favourites - just because that is what they were trained on, and they never bothered to learn about anything else that is out there, but they're by no means the best - or sometimes even any good at all. That's what I'm trying to understand. Now please get back in your box kid.
     
  13. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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    Disappointed in you. It's a fair question - what's a good Consumer Unit to plump for? I just saw this in the ToolStation Catalogue and asked about it. I've been very clear that I have no intention of going about this myself - I would not know where to start, believe me - and I clearly haven't been asking for advice on that aspect, have I?

    I would probably say - if you have no opinion, then just be that - someone who has no opinion. Weird that this is some kind of 'trade secret'.
     
  14. I stand by my original comments, as you cannot specify a CU without being a qualified electrician & knowing the difference between the components which go inside the box, this is not like comparing the difference between two alarm boxes in my opinion
     
  15. Adam_151

    Adam_151

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    Hager Design 10 / Design 30 range AMD3 compliant CU, with main switch incommer with RCBOs on circuits which require them. Expect circa £75 for the board inc incommer and £25 per RCBO required
     
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  16. JohnW2

    JohnW2

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    As I keep saying, the first thing to decide is whether you want RCBOs, MCBs or a mixture, how many and of what ratings, then you could at least ascertain whether that Wylex one you found would be technically suitable.
    Once upon a time, Wylex were a great make, but they have gone a bit downhill. However, FWIW, all of the CUs in my house are Wylex ones, and I'm perfectly happy with them. Many seem to favour Hager.

    No-one seems to have mentioned this yet, but bear in mind that come 1st January 2016, the regulations will require that all new CUs are made of 'non-combustible material' No-one really knows what that means, but most electricians (and manufacturers) are assuming that it means that they will have to be metal. You might just be able to slip in a cheap plastic one (like the one you've found) before that date, but would you really want to install one that would become non-compliant with regulations (albeit with no obligation to upgrade it) within 3 or 4 months? The metal ones are appreciably more expensive (hence you will probably currently find lots of very cheap deals on soon-to-be-non-compliant plastic ones!).

    Kind Regards, John
     
    Last edited: 29 Aug 2015
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  17. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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    Thank you guys!

    Hager seem a good recommendation, Wylex maybe less so.

    The one in my own house is a Wylex, again FWIW. I expect everything to be done on the house before Christmas (not rushing) so while I'll keep in mind the regulation re. possibly metal ones, I'll likely be able to avoid that (I never thought of plastic as being especially combustible - I thought it just melted).
     
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