Fuse Box

[endecotp]

if you search the forum you'll find several threads where people ask about the cost of replacing CUs - and generally don't get precise replies, because it's a "how long is a piece of string" kind of question. It will be a lot more expensive than just fixing a bodged socket replacement though!

As to whether you've caused major damage - personally I was expecting to see some obvious mistake in your socket wiring that would explain the symptoms, but as there isn't any such evidence, maybe the MCB really is dead. In that case, it will come down to whether spares are available for that CU or not.

 

[malix74]

@endecotp thank you for a thorough reply. My main aim for now is to get the sockets going downstairs and will wait and see what the electrician says but thanks again for your input.

 

[JohnW2]

This is very embarrassing, but seriously do you guys think I've done a major damage and how much should I expect to pay the electrician. I will definately have this CU changed.

I doubt that you have done any serious damage, but it's impossible to know what it will cost you, since we don't know what the problem is. That CU (or, rather the breakers in it) is undoubtedly well-past its sell-by date!

Kind Regards, John

 

[flyingsparks]

I still see those CU in some schools I have worked at..

 

[cpjvej2014]

Surely something that old wont just be costly to get replacement parts for but may also be a fire risk ?

 

[malix74]

John I absolutely understand the limitations of this forum but happy to know that it might not be quite so extensive. I think what gothe me perplexed was the way it short-circuted. Buy hay-ho you don't always get it right.

 

[JohnW2]

Surely something that old wont just be costly to get replacement parts for but may also be a fire risk ?

Why do you say that? Furthermore, as I commented earlier, it looks to be metal, which might mean that it is less of a 'fire risk' than most of the flimsy plastic things installed in recent decades!

Kind Regards, John

 

[333rocky333]

if he only refits the socket 40 quid

 

[333rocky333]

Surely something that old wont just be costly to get replacement parts for but may also be a fire risk ?

Why do you say that? Furthermore, as I commented earlier, it looks to be metal, which might mean that it is less of a 'fire risk' than most of the flimsy plastic things installed in recent decades!

Kind Regards, John

crabtree C50's i beleive are Type 4 and I beleive there was issues with them not tripping in high Earth loop situations, tesco made us rip them all out and fit memsheild 2 in stores where they were prevalent.

Them breakers are 70 pound each new, blanks alone are 6 quid if you can find them.

 

[JohnW2]

crabtree C50's i beleive are Type 4 and I beleive there was issues with them not tripping in high Earth loop situations ...

What do you count as 'high'? Any breaker will obviously fail to trip (quickly enough) in response to an L-E fault if the EFLI is above some threshold.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Iggifer]

No, chances are you still have a fault in your socket.

So unlikely to have damaged your fuse board, and I would guarantee the electrician will say change it.

Out of interest, you have two breakers down in the photo of your fuseboard, can you not turn either of them on?

 

[malix74]

@Iggifer yeah well spotted, the one for the cooker (extreme left) does turn on but once we turned the other one on that turns off too. We did think of just turning the cooker on but as we don't need it for now we thought might as well not fiddle with it.

 

[333rocky333]

crabtree C50's i beleive are Type 4 and I beleive there was issues with them not tripping in high Earth loop situations ...

What do you count as 'high'? Any breaker will obviously fail to trip (quickly enough) in response to an L-E fault if the EFLI is above some threshold.

Kind Regards, John

Maybe I wrote it bad
I dont know the calcs john.
I leave that for you
Too high to trip type 4 breakers in the expected time they wanted I assume
I just heard, when the routine testing was done, I assume because of the long cable runs, with some circuits it was not low enough to trip them fast enough, so type C breakers were proposed to help sort it out.
I dont get involved with the testing and install depts.

They also have a low breaking capacity and tend to fail open circuit if there closed on a fault too many times so I think the OP should not keep banging it on.
It was quite common for the adjacent breaker to jump out in sympathy for the other faulty circuit

 

[Adam_151]

Crabtree C50s were Type2. The replacement ones you buy today are 60898 type C. You cant tell the difference without removing them from the board (the white / yellow print does not denote this, this only tells you the breaking capacity w=m3, yellow =m4.5

I am not convinced they are different at all. type 2 was IM in the range of 4-7 x In . Type C is 5-10 x In. I would guess that the mag trip is set to something like 6x In, therefore they could be classified as type 2 under 3871 and type C under 60898

Other boards around at the same time, federal stabloks, dorman smith loadmaster, Sqaure D QO-X were often found full of type 4s

 

[JohnW2]

Crabtree C50s were Type2. The replacement ones you buy today are 60898 type C. ... I am not convinced they are different at all. type 2 was IM in the range of 4-7 x In . Type C is 5-10 x In. I would guess that the mag trip is set to something like 6x In, therefore they could be classified as type 2 under 3871 and type C under 60898

Thanks. That all makes sense - but I'm not sure whether rocky was suggesting that they often didn't work 'per spec', or merely that the circuits were not up to a Type C (or near-equivalent) (which I suspect is true of many a domestic circuit, and probably a good few commercial ones).

Kind Regards, John