Getting replacement CU(s)

[m0bov]

Hi all, this is what's in the property I am purchasing. There is no gas, so its got leccy underfloor heating. I am going to keep it, but want to add plug in water filled leccy rads at some point.

I want to get rid of the E7 meter soon, also there is no isolation for the underfloor. I also noticed in the smaller CU there is a MCB for water heat but the only water heater I found has a flex and 3 pin plug to it. Any ideas?
So guys, would it be better to get rid of the E7 meter before the new CUs? Should I be looking at keeping both CUs? How would the sparky add isloation to the underfloor heating? Can a digi timer be added easily for it? Any thing else you can tell me?


The heater I found is here. I have not moved in yet, just trying to figure out as much as I can now!
James

 

[securespark]

It's not usual to put a plug on an immersion but I have seen it done.

It's madness to get rid of E7 if you have no gas in the building.

Have you costed what electric heating would set you back on standard tariff?

 

[deadshort]

I suspect this is a method os transferring from one tariff to another by switching the plug from one socket to the other.
The wiring looks fairly new why do you need to replace the CU's ?

DS

 

[m0bov]

Hi. There is no RCB protection. I wanted to remove the E7 as the heating would only be on over night and not during early evening when we get home. Plus using washing machines and tumble dryers would have to be run at night which would not be convienient.

 

[flameport]

also there is no isolation for the underfloor.

Isolation is probably the consumer unit - turn the whole thing off when heating is not required.

I wanted to remove the E7 as the heating would only be on over night and not during early evening when we get home.

Electric UFH relies on the concrete floor absorbing the heat during the on period, so that it remains warm for the rest of the day. Similar to a giant storage heater.
Some arrangements can have a mid afternoon boost as well.
If you don't use it in that way, when it's switched on from cold it will typically take several hours before any appreciable heat is felt in the rooms and be totally useless.

Whether you use it or not is of course your choice, but you should actually try using it and see how much it costs before making any changes to the E7 or whatever other arrangement it has.
If you want other heating, any cheap portable heaters from Argos or similar can be used instead. They will cost far more to operate but might be less overall if you only heat the place for a few hours each day.

Plus using washing machines and tumble dryers would have to be run at night which would not be convienient.

They can be used at any time. Although night units are cheaper and appliances used at night might be able to take advantage of that if the E7 covers the normal power outlets as well, the savings will be insignificant.
For all-electric installations, it's usually the case that the E7 or E10 etc. only applies to the heating circuits, not normal outlets.

 

[m0bov]

The supplier said they can fit a single smart meter and keep the off peak rate. So, any ideas how I would get a digi timer fitted to the floor heating and the hot water?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The supplier said they can fit a single smart meter and keep the off peak rate.

But you said you wanted rid of the E7 tariff.

Please don't say that you only wanted to do that because you thought it was the only way you could get a smart meter?

 

[m0bov]

No, I am keeping the E7 for the moment at least so I can use the underfloor.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

So why are you having the meter changed?

 

[Iggifer]

If you have E7 you don't need a timer, the UFH will come on at night and go off in the morning. Job done. Same for the HW if you plug it in to the correct socket.

Is your UFH on the second board with the water heater? Does the UFH have controllers? These generally have timers built in.

An immersion heater timer is fairly simple to do, but you would need to get rid of the two sockets, and have it done properly.

Something like this would take an E7 feed and a 24/7 feed. You'd leave the E7 always on, and then if you need a HW top up during the day, hit boost (I'm sure there is, and sure I've fitted, cheaper ones, but you get the idea)

 

[ericmark]

I have under floor electric heating in just the wet room, it takes a good two hours to warm up, and that's just getting floor warm, it takes over night to warm room, seems a good idea to have house on Econ 10 running underfloor heating, OK may need an extra heater around 8 pm but depends on how well insulated the home is.

Much depends on your life style, but once you have a Smart meter getting rid of it is hard, they may help the supplier but not the user. At home be it 17°C or 22°C I am not really worried, in mothers house I want 20°C +/- 0.5°C which is very different. So what control do you need, and is anyone in the house during the day?

 

[jg321]

I've just moved out of an 800(ish) sq foot flat with an immersion and underfloor heating. We didn't have economy 7, which did shock me at first, although it turned out to be no more expensive to run than the previous flat I lived in, which had economy 10, and immersion/storage heaters.

YMMV, but just wanted to add my experience.