Golf 1.4 tsi petrol 2013

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Hi all looking for some input,thinking of purchasing a golf 1.4 tsi petrol 2013 is there any problems with these cars,I have heard about timing chains problems, so what is there reliability like.
Cheers Tom.
 
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I've got the 150bhp GT MK7 Golf and did a lot of research before buying and was quite happy to buy. I don't believe the chain "problem" was sorted on these cars. But its a superb engine being quiet and smoth and with loads of poke. I have the DSG box and its a perfect match up.
 
I've had the car 20 months and I do check weekly, old habits die hard, but I've never had to top it up much between services. Literally just the odd drop every few months and I'm talking egg cup fulls.
 
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Pleased to see someone who still opens their bonnet occasionally. I think we're in the minority
 
:LOL:

As I said... old habits die hard. In my case it comes from having my first cars as a a beaten up mini van and a Anglia 105E.... daily fluid checks were the norm....

The Golf makes you lazy unless you are careful as the only thing that goes down is the windscreen water. The thimble full of oil every few months is ridiculous and I suspect just my misreading a level that essentially never seems to change. My wife's 11 year old Yaris is the same.... barely moves for months on end
 
But it's when you find you need a litre rather than a thimbleful that you realise the benefits of regular checks!
 
I find it hard to understand how oil can lubricate the piston rings and valve guides etc and not pass into the combustion chamber.
 
AFAIK Dave it's to do with the rings being tapered (by an infitesmal amount) and the bottom one being a multi part Oil Control one ( from way back when I played with cars;)) Valve guides might have an oil absorbing metal. I'd be interested to update my knowledge, though I don't bother with car repairs now.
 
That's spot on Nige.....the oil control ring on the bottom of the piston is crucial in preventing oil consumption, and there's a certain lubricity in the fuel used - particularly diesel- that helps things along. Compression pressures also help to keep the oil down.
Valve guides are still largely cast iron - the porosity of the material helps to absorb lubricant and the large graphite (carbon) content again helps things along.
Of course engines can be made to much finer tolerances than they used to be - hence no running in period required and oils are much more developed too.
In a new motor it isn't recommended to nurse the thing particularly as the cylinder bores tend to glaze.....give it stick right from the word go. Of course this is totally the opposite to what I grew up with!
John :)
 
Not sure on your budget, but just to put things in perspective for you.

For £16,000 you can get a brand new, decent spec Toyota Auris 1.2T on 0% APR.

A brand new car with a 5 year warranty!!!

No MOTs for 3 years, bullet proof reliability (unlike a VW). Everything is new, so no need for new tyres for ages, brakes etc.

I will bet you now, do the total cost of ownership over a number of years and it will be cheaper to get a brand new Toyota.
 
Fair comment Fred so long as the buyer doesn't think that everything is covered....some Kia owners became unstuck when they were faced with the replacement of 'wear and tear' items.(7 year warranty, or whatever it was)
An example.....Kia C'eed, 07 plate .....Kia reckoned the front discs and pads needed replacement after 3 years ( this wouldn't be covered, of course). They lasted another 3 years before I renewed them!
A way of clawing some dosh back, methinks.
John :)
 
Yeah the Kia warranty is not great from what I have heard. It resorts to just engine and gearbox near the end I think. It did at one stage anyway.

The Toyota 5 year is a full on warranty. Customer service is generally brilliant as well.
 
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