Got to cut down a thick trunk, need a chainsaw?

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Got a thick branch, is it best to get a chain saw or stick to bowsaw? Also what is the best way to cut normal sized but heavy branches? I keep having the bark ripping down one side. Doesn't look like a clean cut.
 
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If the branch is still up a height, get a line on it, and have someone pulling to guide it to its eventual destiny. Then, use a chainsaw if the cut is simple and safe but stick with the bow saw if you are in any way doubtful.
To get a clean cut, there needs to be a vee in the trunk or branch - but that's for the professional logger really.
John :)
 
DIY chainsaws should only be used for logs held in a saw horse IMHO. A bowsaw won't kill you.
 
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To stop bark tearing, you need to undercut the branch so that the bark isn't still attached to the tree at the bottom as the branch leaves the tree,
 
I've cut tree branches before using a bow saw. Agree with @Tigercubrider - cut the bottom side of the branch so when you cut from the top, the bark doesn't strip down the trunk. It's stopped by the undercut. I found cutting long branches on my own quite difficult - the cut end of the branch would pinch the blade. It's easier when supported by someone else.
 
I agree with others in undercutting to prevent the bark tearing and getting a line on it to stabilise it.

I would extend what @lostinthelight in the light said and say that in some cases you will want to spend a lot longer cutting off branches (and maybe the the top of the main body) than in your final cuts. This reduce the weight, making it less likely to suddenly fall and also make it easier to guide into the right place.

I am gradually reducing / removing a lot of self-planted laurels & hollies, maybe 20 trunks & serious branches last winter. Everything that was c. 6" or less in diameter I did by hand. If you have someone with you to help guide it then you can take turns if necessary. Beyond 8" in diameter I would get my chainsaw out.

But I would echo what John said. If you are not confident with a chain-saw don't use one.
 
While undercutting does help in a lot of cases , there are species of trees that depending on the season can still split into the trunk even if the bark is severed underneath . one won't, or shouldn't see many tree surgeons that don't make the final cut on a controllable length of branch.

litl
 
one won't, or shouldn't see many tree surgeons that don't make the final cut on a controllable length of branch.

Unless the piece being cut off is very short (e.g. tidying up something that was previously cut back) I normally make my 'final cut' a foot or 18 inches further out from where I want it eventually cut back to. Then that last piece to cut off is small & easy to manage.
 

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