Great, a gas leak...

They should have run the gas pipe in kuterlux without you having to ask them :eek:

It could be several reasons including forgetting to solder a joint and the flux holding for a few months! Could be the screed eaten into the copper, the reason for using plastic :rolleyes:
 
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gas4you, yes you're probably right, dam dam double dam (am I allowed to swear on here).. hindsight is a wonderful thing. As you say, at the very least they should have run the main gas supply from the meter to the boiler in that special yellow plastic pipe. I wonder what kinda explaination I am gonna get from them, or how they're gonna tackle it :?:
 
Hi

What other appliances do you have connected? Just a boiler and cooker?

Personally i doubt the bare copper would be degraded by the cement that quickly but the un soldered joint is a possiblity.

If the leak is traced to being in the screed then the answer would be to run a new supply surface to the appliances. What kind of distance is the gas pipe buried in the floor? ie from the meter to the boiler?

Sam
 
Sam, luckily the only only two appliances are a new gas range cooker and a new Vaillant system boiler.. hot water supplied via a MegaFlo. I too am a little concerned about the copper piping.. maybe a little doubtful it could corrode in cement, having done a 'google' on it.. but it certainly could be the joints... more of a reason to have the yellow plastic piping.

The distance between the gas meter and the Vaillant boiler (in the kitchen) is approx. 35 feet, going via our main living room, so not really ideal.
 
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No not ideal, 35 feet!

To be honest there's not much you can do without a gas engineer. There's always a chance it's not underfloor though, could be the nut on the other side of the isolation valve on the boiler you turned off, or the cooker etc

Let us know what the outcome is though

Sam
 
You need to have a gas engineer 'sniff' all accessible areas with a gas leak machine before anything else. from your previous post you say you cannot isolate cooker. How is this connected then?
 
The range cooker I believe is directly connected to the main supply via a wall mounted bayonet connection, which is via a tee junction, I think. I could isolate the cooker by simply disconnecting it from the bayonet connection.

I guess the Corgi guy will do that and isolate the boiler, prior to checking for any leaks.. here's hoping that Sam is right, and it could be the nut on the other side of the isolation valve on the boiler or the range, or something similiar..
 
cant see the concrete eating the pipe away if even if its not protected as pipes to gas fires get concreted too.
 
well yes, as I said I was a little concerned about the effects of burying copper pipes in cement, but as you correctly point out doyle, this is how it is normally been done for gas fires..

for everybody concerned, please read the following website.. proves to be a bit of an interesting read.. about 3/4 of the way down the page.

http://www.copper.org/copperhome/faq_page_2.html

or extracted as below:
===============
Would you please inform me of any negative effects regards to cement and copper piping. Could the cement cause leaks over time, and if so, how long does it generally take to see the effects?

In spite of numerous myths regarding the acceptability of copper in contact with concrete, it is completely acceptable to bury/embed both hard drawn and annealed copper water tube in concrete. Decades of satisfactory service experience with the use of copper tube for in-floor radiant heating systems, water distribution systems and snow melting systems attest to the compatibility of copper tube embedded, encased or in contact with concrete.

It is also acceptable to run a copper water tube through a concrete floor or wall, provided that allowance is made for the lateral thermal expansion and movement of the tube and protection of the tube from abrasion. This can be done by insulating the tube where it passes through the wall or by wrapping the tube with an approved tape (to avoid abrasion) and installing it through a sleeve. Please refer to your local plumbing code for specific requirements regarding the protection of pipes and tubes passing through concrete and masonry floors and walls.

Both of the protection methods outlined above and the requirements listed in most plumbing codes are simply to protect the copper tube from the fatigue and wear caused by thermal expansion and movement. These protective measures are in no way dictated by the interaction of the concrete and the copper tube.

Also, the interaction of copper with either dry and wet concrete should not cause a corrosion concern. However, copper should be protected when it comes in contact with concrete mixtures that contain components high in sulfur, such as cinders and fly-ash, which can create an acid that is highly corrosive to most metals including copper.

One of the most prevalent myths regarding the use of copper in concrete is that lime in the concrete will have a negative or corrosive effect on the surface of the copper. In fact, a screened soil/pulverized limestone mixture is actually recommended as a selective backfill for copper tube to help eliminate corrosion concerns. There should be no concern regarding the interaction of the copper with lime in the concrete.
===============

Out of curiosity guys, with the advances of technology, is it now deemed more appropiate or required as part of Building Regs or something similiar, to have this special 'yellow plastic pipe' where running gas buried in concrete nowadays?
 
Our gas regs state we must protect copper from cement/concrete etc and all buried gas pipe must technically be within a sleeve to contain any leaks, this is wy kuterlux plus with its air gap triangles is allowed as it is classed as sleeving, but wait till you see the price :eek: :rolleyes: :cry:
 
I would have thought so but the Kuterlux saga is what I have been 'instructed' on my latest Re-assessment 18 months ago. I don't necessarily agree with it. Have I been told incorrectly?
 
yeah have to agree with that, difference of logic used.
a gas fire needs concrete to prevent the fumes as it is little area coverage then tape protection is sufficient, where as the 15 mtrs of 15 mm would need to be protected from the concrete.. yeah understand that now. it is in the training and was tempory forgotton. slap wrist for me.
 
got acs exams starting monday so if you guys wanna throw a load of q&a my way it will be appreciated.
 
Pipework laid in concrete, suitable methods of protection are as follows:-

1, Fully annealed factory-sheathed copper tube passed though a larger sized plastic tube sleeving previously set into the floor slab and base hard core. Joints not permissable within the larger sleeving.

2, Pipes laid on top of base concrete and then covered by a screed should be factory-sheathed or protected on site by using an appropriate wrapping material. surpose that would include denso soggy.

3, Steel or copper tube fitted with additional soft covering material. Covering should be soft and thick enough to provide movement, yet strong enough to support the concrete whilst it sets. The covering should be min 5mm thick (Denso?) and resilient to concrete ingress.

4, All steel, copper or metallic joints used should be corrosion protected by the application of bituminous paint or by wrapping tapes of the PVC or grease impregnated type.
 

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