GU10 LED Downlights

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What ho all self isolators,

Having some problems with my GU10 kitchen LED downlights.

When originally fitted, they were 240v halogen and a few years ago, the GU10's replaced with LED bulbs. But to date, none fulfil the 30k hours specification.

And of course, it is almost impossible to get a single replacement bulb that matches the others. Recently replaced all with 6W COB bulbs; really pleased, but two months down the line and three have failed. Obviously high quality Chinese products!

So what is the solution? Very expensive well known brands? Or replace the ceiling fitting with something that is designed for LED bulbs and if so, what? Does a LED require a different transformer (driver?) than a halogen?

Thanks and toodle pip
 
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Yes, although I believe it was 'cleared' away from the immediate vicinity of the lights. Nevertheless, the ceiling fittings are probably within an enclosed space.

Although I am guilty of buying non-brand specific bulbs! Not the cheapest, but not the most expensive either. 500 lumen, 6w, COB
 
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Built in? Is it the tiny pin-head size chips or resistors or whatever?
 
You said they were GU10 lamps. These have - built in - all the gizmo stuff to make the lights come on.
Like your television, you plug it in to the mains, all of the stuff that makes a picture is inside the box.
The 230V LED lamps are like that, only slightly less complicated!
 
If correct you have already got 240V GU10 fitted LED lamps which isn't the issue, your issue is quality. I would suggest you try Aurora / Enlight EN-GU005/64 (the last digits /65 denotes the colour or kelvin ratings the higher the number the brighter and whiter the appearance and these are the brightest and although its all down to personal taste but in my view these are what I would go for in a kitchen but not in a bedroom or living room drop to the warmer colours again warmer having lower last two digits.). These are in my view pretty good, tested over time, and above all else available at many outlets/ wholesalers not the DIY stores.
LED are still changing and improving all the time so although they are very widely available now that could change with technology as many things do. Buy some spares, but these do generally last well.

As previously pointed out by Taylor these have all the gadgetry built in so do not require transforming of any type, although LED uses a driver not the low voltage transformers you may have previously had when using the 50w lv lamps.
 
I can only say what I have found, since moving to LED I think I have had 5 lamps fail, 3 of those were very cheap 0.58W G5.3 MR16 lamps from PoundWorld so in real terms just two failures, one rather expensive replacement for a fluorescent tube from screwfix, and a G9 bulb from an electrical whole sale outlet. Which in real terms is a very low failure rate, I get bulbs from HomeBargains, B&M Bargains, and Lidi, non have failed, all my chandeliers have bulb base at bottom so light is reflected off white ceiling and the electronics in base are away from any heat from the bulb, all my GU10 bulbs are in pods so they can be directed to where I want light, if you don't want to direct light seems a bit daft to use a spot light.

I found early on expensive bulbs don't last any longer, in fact my Philips globe CFL 8W had very short lives, so I keep away from Philips now, so either your very unlucky, or bulbs are getting too hot.

With GU10 I found 7 watt does not seem to light the room much better that 3.5 watt, and as the watts increase the cooling fins size also increases so the area giving light decreases to give room for the fins, so around 5 watt is the maximum size I will use with GU10 lamps, to use GU10 in a kitchen angled slightly so worktops get most of the light seems good, and those which can be angled are often slightly bigger or designed as pods, so and dissipate heat better, but I think the kitchen needs a lot of light, around 3500 lumen, so 3.5 watt GU10 is around 270 lumen so would need around 12 to 15 to light kitchen, and that makes ceiling look like a planetarium. My son loves them, and has replaced the 58 watt fluorescent with 16 GU10's and I have to admit it works, but fitting 16 lamps is a lot of work.

So for me I want at least one large lamp, even if using some GU10 lamps to light work surfaces, and this is the whole problem in moving to so called energy saving lights. So old house when built had two light fittings in living room with two 100 watt pearl BA22d tungsten bulbs, that's around 3700 lumen, I simply can't buy two BA22d bulbs with that output, so need a pair of 5 bulb chandeliers with 10 x 5 watt E14 candle bulbs to get the same amount of light, yes ¼ of the power used with tungsten, but you simply can't buy 25 watt BA22d LED bulbs, so your forced to change the fittings.

In general you need to double the number of bulbs when going from tungsten to LED, well even fluorescent to LED a 58 watt fluorescent tube powered with a HF ballast gives out around 5500 lumen hard to get exact figures as tubes are rated with wire wound ballast and the HF ballast gives 20% more light approx, there are some exceptions but most the LED replacements give out around 2400 lumen so also need to use a twin fitting to get same light output.

So 950 lumen approx from a 50 watt quartz bulb, so needs a 12.5 watt LED to get same light, and you simply can't get a 12.5 watt GU10 so you need to double the number of fittings, and use 5 watt. So this house we have 5 and 8 bulb chandeliers to be able to get same lights as old tungsten bulbs, getting a chandelier with BA22d bulbs seems to be hard so forced to use E14 bulbs and an 8 bulb chandelier is heavy, so use plug in ceiling rose with hook.

I am not convinced that LED bulbs save energy, I have needed to fit programmable thermostats once the tungsten was replaced with LED as I want temperature higher in the evening to during the day, so lack of radiant heat from bulbs means to get it warmer at night need a programmable thermostat, however simply can't buy pearl 100 watt bulbs any more, and when you can get them, the price has shot up, could get packs of 10 assorted bulbs from supermarket very cheap, and when they expired the waste was not a problem, now we have to deliver spent bulbs to skip sites as not collected in general waste, or return to shop when buying new, in spite of law saying they must take old light bulbs and batteries, last time I took a fluorescent tube to Wicks they refused to take it.

So at the moment only option is seems is to fly tip as skip sites closed.
 
What ho all self isolators,

Having some problems with my GU10 kitchen LED downlights.

When originally fitted, they were 240v halogen and a few years ago, the GU10's replaced with LED bulbs. But to date, none fulfil the 30k hours specification.

And of course, it is almost impossible to get a single replacement bulb that matches the others. Recently replaced all with 6W COB bulbs; really pleased, but two months down the line and three have failed. Obviously high quality Chinese products!

So what is the solution? Very expensive well known brands? Or replace the ceiling fitting with something that is designed for LED bulbs and if so, what? Does a LED require a different transformer (driver?) than a halogen?

Thanks and toodle pip
Trust me if you have either standard mains GU10 or 50watt halogens and were changing for the Aurora Enlight 5watt you will not be disappointed, your lumen output will be far better and lamp life will be longer especially over mains standard GU10 which were and are a dreadful lamp.
 

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