I am hoping that someone will be able to help me with the problem I am experiencing with my Central Heating system.
I moved into the house (4 bed Detached) 6 years again and the system has never worked properly.
I have a Glow Worm Ultimate 60BF boiler, Wilo Gold 50 Pump, Honeywell Cylinder Tank stat, Sunvic SD2701 3 Port Diverter Valve, Sunvic Select 207XLS 2Channel Programmer and a Sunvic TLX6501 Programmable Room Stat. Everything with the exception of the boiler has been replaced in the last 6 months (including the 3 Port Diverter Valve body) and the system has been rewired to a Y-Plan following the replacement of a Danfoss 103E programmer (with the Sunvic Select 207XLS) to allow independant control of C/H and H/W. The radiators are connected via Microbore and all of them have been removed and flushed out.
The problem I have is a 'weird' one, when no H/W or C/H is demanded the grey wire from the valve actuator is the only wire of the 4 live which is normal. When H/W is demanded the boiler fires, pump starts and hot water is passed through the Hot Water cylinder via the Diverter valve which is normally in the H/W only position and heats the tank. The orange wire from the actuator becomes live and grey is NOT live.
If C/H is then demanded together with H/W the valve moves to the Mid Position and there is power on White and Orange, pump spins and boiler remains lit the water is heated and the radiators get hot.
If H/W is no longer demanded (the cylinder stat has reached its temp) but there is still a demand for C/H the valve moves to the H/W position, when it starts to move from the Mid Position the pump stops (not sure about boiler as cannot be in too places at once - boiler in garage and valve in airing cupboard upstairs!!) then the actuator moves the valve to the final C/H only position there is a click of the microswitch in the actuator and the pump fires up again (power on white, grey and orange actuator wires). The main problem I am experiencing then happens whereby within a few seconds the pipe from the boiler to the pump and subsequent pipes after the pump and diverter valve on the C/H side become cold and the boiler is not fired up (only pilot light lit)
This problem is also apparent if I try to fire the system up from cold onto C/H only the pump starts, valve moves to correct position (power on White, grey and orange) but boiler does not fire and no heat to radiators even though the room stat is turned up and calling for heat.
So to conclude I can only get the radiators to remain on by turning the cylinder stat up to max (90 degrees) and have the H/W and C/H on together at the programmer which is a waste of energy and I have Franke taps with cartridges in them that cannot exceed 60 degrees water temp.
Can someone please help me with this puzzle as I have spent a lot of time and money in investigating myself, plumbers, electricians not to mention the cost of the replacement parts??
I am technically able so any assistance will be gratefully received.
Thanks
Andy
I moved into the house (4 bed Detached) 6 years again and the system has never worked properly.
I have a Glow Worm Ultimate 60BF boiler, Wilo Gold 50 Pump, Honeywell Cylinder Tank stat, Sunvic SD2701 3 Port Diverter Valve, Sunvic Select 207XLS 2Channel Programmer and a Sunvic TLX6501 Programmable Room Stat. Everything with the exception of the boiler has been replaced in the last 6 months (including the 3 Port Diverter Valve body) and the system has been rewired to a Y-Plan following the replacement of a Danfoss 103E programmer (with the Sunvic Select 207XLS) to allow independant control of C/H and H/W. The radiators are connected via Microbore and all of them have been removed and flushed out.
The problem I have is a 'weird' one, when no H/W or C/H is demanded the grey wire from the valve actuator is the only wire of the 4 live which is normal. When H/W is demanded the boiler fires, pump starts and hot water is passed through the Hot Water cylinder via the Diverter valve which is normally in the H/W only position and heats the tank. The orange wire from the actuator becomes live and grey is NOT live.
If C/H is then demanded together with H/W the valve moves to the Mid Position and there is power on White and Orange, pump spins and boiler remains lit the water is heated and the radiators get hot.
If H/W is no longer demanded (the cylinder stat has reached its temp) but there is still a demand for C/H the valve moves to the H/W position, when it starts to move from the Mid Position the pump stops (not sure about boiler as cannot be in too places at once - boiler in garage and valve in airing cupboard upstairs!!) then the actuator moves the valve to the final C/H only position there is a click of the microswitch in the actuator and the pump fires up again (power on white, grey and orange actuator wires). The main problem I am experiencing then happens whereby within a few seconds the pipe from the boiler to the pump and subsequent pipes after the pump and diverter valve on the C/H side become cold and the boiler is not fired up (only pilot light lit)
This problem is also apparent if I try to fire the system up from cold onto C/H only the pump starts, valve moves to correct position (power on White, grey and orange) but boiler does not fire and no heat to radiators even though the room stat is turned up and calling for heat.
So to conclude I can only get the radiators to remain on by turning the cylinder stat up to max (90 degrees) and have the H/W and C/H on together at the programmer which is a waste of energy and I have Franke taps with cartridges in them that cannot exceed 60 degrees water temp.
Can someone please help me with this puzzle as I have spent a lot of time and money in investigating myself, plumbers, electricians not to mention the cost of the replacement parts??
I am technically able so any assistance will be gratefully received.
Thanks
Andy