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Hanging 5kg shelf on plasterboard - Metal studs

Discussion in 'Decorating and Painting' started by pandamilk, 10 Jul 2018.

  1. pandamilk

    pandamilk

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    Hi all, hope this is the right place for this.. but I was hoping I could get some help.

    Im fixing two 5kg shelves (string pocket shelves) to the plasterboard wall in my kitchen. It's a new build flat and as I've found out today - the studs are metal.

    I wat going to use grip-it fixings for the shelf and fix the middle bracket to a stud. I first tried to drill into a stud - thinking they were wood. But hit nothing - so I used a 15mm drill bit for the grip-it IMG_3709.JPG IMG_3710.JPG and discovered that there is a metal stud behind the wall. See images attached.

    Now im not really sure what the best thing to do would be. My plan was to move a bit to the right (above the plug socket - is that a terrible idea?) or above the current hole ive made with a different screw / fixing.

    The shelves almost fit the space perfectly so not too much wiggle room either side to move (maybe about 10cm either side).


    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. blup

    blup

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    1. Use a stud finder/cable detector or otherwise ascertain the location of electric cables and other metal studs - for obvious reasons
    2. As a DIYER I have no experience of metal stud walls but you will need to be satisfied they, and the plasterboard wall, are structurally able to take the load.
    3. Is a grip fit going to be suitable for the weight of the shelves, plus the load they will support? Metal cavity wall fixings will take a higher load than grip fit, like these
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    If you are unsure of any of the above, get a tradesman in to do the work. You're transferring the risk and should get good advice and a reliable job.

    Blup
     
  4. rsgaz

    rsgaz

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    If your plasterboard thickness is half an inch(12.7mm) and not 15mm, you could still use the gripit, because they can work on thicknesses "up to 15mm". (i.e. 12.7 plus the metal, maybe 1mm extra)

    You would need to complete the hole with a 15mm HSS holesaw to go through the metal. Then the gripit will grab the plasterboard and the metal stud.

    15mm is an unusual size for 'proper' holesaws, so your best bet is a cheap one like this, which will probably be already worn out by the time you've used it twice!

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232739607259
     
  5. pandamilk

    pandamilk

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    Thanks for the advice guys.

    I think ive come up with three options

    1 - drill another hole above or below - but use a snap toggle fixing to the metal stud. Then use 'grip-it' or anchor fixings for the remaining holes.

    2 - drill to the right (above the socket - after checking where the wires go) and use grip-it fixings / anchor fixings.

    3 - get someone else to do it!


    Just out of curiosity - would using a hollow wall anchor be better than the grip-it fixing?

    many thanks

    jack
     
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  7. blup

    blup

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    Look at the reviews for grip it on screwfix and then for cavity fixings like fischer and make your own mind up. I would go for traditional cavity fixings and avoid the metal studs, but just a personal view.

    Personally a little sceptical of the usefulness of the figure for the claimed maximum load of 140 odd kgs for grip it, because the plasterboard will likely fail before that has been reached. But they have a lot of good reviews.

    Blup
     
  8. opps

    opps

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    I use grip-It from time to time but wont a 15mm hole still be visible once you hang the shelves?

    Standard toggle fittings? Remove the screw for decorating and the toggle falls into the cavity. Additionally you still have large visible hole.

    The fittings in Blurps first photo are much better, you can remove the screws without losing the fitting.

    Alternatively try Toggler toggles http://www.toggler-uk.com/snaptoggle/

    I wouldn't be too worried about screwing in to a metal stud provided that the total span of your shelves is supported either side of the studs.

    Drilling above a dry wall socket? I have done it loads of times with standard drill bits. The cable simply pushes out of the way. I wouldn't however want to use a sharp spade bit. Just loosen the socket plate, you may well find that the cables only go downwards (isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first).
     
    Last edited: 11 Jul 2018
  9. pandamilk

    pandamilk

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    That's great - thanks for the help guys !
     
  10. glen8

    glen8

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    You want toggler toggle bolts. Get them off ebay.
    B&Q sell them, but avoid! They are rubbish. Only use toggler ones.

    We also have a new build, plasterboard walls. We've hung a 40" TV using them and it's not fallen off in over a year :)

    They are genius! also used them in the cloakroom for a coat hanger, hung about six heavy coats on and again, perfect.
     
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